conditioning effect in shampoos. Amino-functional silicones are the
biggest group of organo-modified silicones used in personal care.
The amino group is protonated and becomes cationic at acidic pH
value normally used for shampoo and conditioner formulation. It
enables substantivity and improved deposition. Evonik Industries
has recently launched two new amino-functional silicones with different molecular weight for cost efficient and reproducible conditioning effects out of shampoos and conditioning emulsions. Both
products are 100% active in liquid form with relatively low viscosity
and thus easy to process. The higher molecular weight aminopropyl
dimethicone is optimized for conditioning emulsions, the lower molecular weight one for crystal clear shampoos. Both types are very efficient in improving combability and feel of hair. Also the synergistic
effects for combinations with cationics in hair conditioners and with
cationic polymers in shampoos have been demonstrated.
In addition to protecting hair from damages by chemical/relaxer,
heat/flattening iron and mechanical/grooming treatment, safeguarding hair from the damaging UV rays of daily sunlight exposure
is an additional important need. Polysilicone- 19 is a silicone UV quat
containing side chains with either cationic groups or methoxycin-namic acid, a UV chromophore. Therefore, polysilicone- 19 combines
substantivity to hair with UV-absorbing properties. The effect can
also be demonstrated after a rinse-off treatment such as shampooing or conditioning. Including polysilicone- 19 provides 40% protection against damage by UV light after a conditioning rinse treatment.
Table 1 summarizes the benefits of the conditioning agents for ethnic hair care. Table 2 gives an overview of the specific benefits of the
described organo-modified silicones for shampoos. All are clearly
soluble in surfactant based systems.
significantly increases the mechanical strength
of straightened ethnic hair. The repair efficacy
is superior to hydrolyzed proteins. The tensile
strength measurements were conducted with
ethnic hair which had been straightened by
guanidinium carbonate/Ca(OH)2.
An efficient leave-in treatment is often a
vital regimen for ethnic consumers to maintain an esthetically attractive and healthy
hair. Depending on the choice of ingredients,
it provides benefits such as improving man-agability, providing moisturization, shine
and frizz control and styling properties. It
can be used daily when necessary, especially
in between the cleansing steps with a shampoo in order to achieve desired properties
such as frizz control. The guideline leave-in
hair dressing cream formula is a water-in-oil emulsion with intense conditioning properties to provide manageability, gloss and
some straightening effect.
Summary and Outlook
Hair breakage is the number one concern among the ethnic consumers. Aside from the unique inherited hair structure, another significant characteristic of ethnic hair is the dryness of the hair and scalp
which causes a wide array of negative consequences. The dry hair has
a rough surface and feel with dull appearance, tends to frizz, is prone
to tangle and fragile. Therefore, it is important to avoid stripping out
natural oils, or at least using products that can compensate for the loss
of natural oils. Deep conditioning is important, especially among consumers with heat- or chemically straightened hair and/or permanently colored hair. Shampoo and conditioners as well as maintenance
products for ethnic hair must contain richer caring and moisturizing
ingredients in comparison to products for consumers with normal or
oily hair. As the natural hair trend continues, sales of relaxer kits are
expected to decline, while styling or setting products that aid in the
manageability and styling of kinky hair will increase.
Healthier, stronger hair with high sensorial benefits will be a
main target for consumer products. Looking ahead, the market
will continue to develop new interesting products with innovative solutions that meet the special needs of each consumer. •
More info: www.evonik.com/personal-care
Hair Repair & Strengthening
Creatine is an amino acid derivative, naturally produced in the human body. As a small zwitterionic molecule, it is able to increase the
number of electrostatic bonds/interactions within the hair shaft, which
leads to an increase of hair’s tensile strength. Consequently, creatine
References
1. Mintel reports, Mintel Group Ltd.
2. S. Herrwerth, I. Ulrich-Brehm, U. Kortemeier, P. Winter, M. Ferenz, B. Grüning, Silicone
Quaternium-22: New Silicone Technology for Premium Hair Conditioning with Additional
Benefits, SOF W, 2009, 6, 11-18
3. T. A. Evans, K. Park, B. Yang, M. Kadir, S. Herrwerth, B. Grüning, Quantifying the benefits
of conditioning treatments on hair breakage, SPC, 2010 (November), 51-54
4. U. Kortemeier, C.Hartung, P.Winter, S.Herrwerth, P.Schwab, Silicone Quaternium- 22
Microemulsion: Easy-To-Use Silicone Quat Technology for Premium Conditioning and Hair
Protecting Benefits, SOFW, 2012, 4, 16-23rtemeier@evonik.com
happi.com
April 2013