HOT INGREDIENTS IN BEAUTY
a proprietary retinoid linked with lactic acid to
form a unique molecule that provides maximum
effectiveness with minimal irritation, according to Dong.
“The retinoid helps support
collagen, clarify pores, even
skin tone, soften the appearance of lines, while the lactic
acid helps increase cell turnover and provide a gentle exfoliation,” she said.
New Brightening Cleanser
and Brightening Toner formulations recently
launched by Le Mieux Cosmetics, Los Angeles,
tout mandelic acid and glutathione in addition
to licorice root, bearberry and papaya extracts.
According to Janel Luu, CEO, mandelic acid offers
gentle exfoliation and resurfacing while glutathione, an antioxidant, targets signs of environmental damage. Licorice root, bearberry, grapefruit
and papaya extracts boost clarity and radiance, while 3-O-ethyl
ascorbic acid (a form of vitamin C) provides absorption and
Next month direct seller Avon will further expand its Anew franchise with Ultimate Supreme Advanced Performance Crème. The
treatment is said to be infused with black pearl essence, an ingredient known to improve skin’s ability to retain moisture, as well as the
highest level of Avon’s exclusive Celluvive anti-aging complex.
Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme + Global Anti-Aging
Collection includes a crème and a balm that feature an exclusive
moringa extract that supports skin’s natural Nrf2, which helps
“turn on” multiple anti-aging benefits, including new anti-irritation and antioxidant pathways. Lauder contends the extract also
helps amplify the benefits of a powerful collagen complex to help
further promote natural collagen while prickly pear cactus extract
nourishes and strengthens skin’s moisture barrier.
Dr. Ilya Raskin, an internationally known plant biologist
at Rutgers University, played a role in product development.
According to Lauder, Dr. Raskin developed a moringa extract derived from the nutritionally dense seeds of the Moringa oleifera
species, which is exclusive to Estée Lauder. This patent-pending
extraction process produces a high concentration of this potent
molecule and maintains the stability to significantly enhance its
natural bioactivity. In vitro testing showed that the moringa extract increases Nrf2 in skin cells by 76% after 24 hours.
“This exclusive moringa extract has allowed us to target even
more anti-aging pathways, including skin’s natural anti-irritation
and antioxidant pathways to help defend against environmental aggressors,” according to Dr. Nadine Pernodet, vice president,
skin biology and bioactives R&D, Estée Lauder Companies.
Plant stem cell ingredients are making waves in Europe and
Asia, and while US consumers remain a bit more hesitant about
the concept in general, more brands are incorpo-
rating these efficacious ingredients into their skin
For example, Alpessence, a Swiss-based luxury
skin care line that is sold online in 14 countries, is
infusing its products with extracted rose stem cell
“Plant stem cells have been known to vigorously ward off aging by boosting cellular regeneration to repair weathered skin. The rose stem cells
also prompt our own stem cells to increase collagen
production, further smoothing out fine lines and
helping to protect skin against future wrinkles. The
infusion-plus technology, favored by Alpessence,
ensures the rose stem cells penetrate the skin’s surface, delivering its top-of-the-line ingredients to
the epidermis layer, where they’re most needed,”
noted Chencheng Quan, business operation manager of Linco International Trading Company, Inc.,
parent company to Alpessence.
Rose stem cell technology is also big at Rodial, a brand that
has caught consumers’ attention with unique ingredients like
dragon’s blood and bee venom. The company recently launched
Stem Cell Magic, a 10-in-1 hydrator gel. The formulation’s Bio-Protect complex, along with PhytoCell Tech Alp Rose stem cell
technology (a powder based on the stem cells of Alpine Rose
leaves) helps fight against environmental stressors by retaining
skin’s hydration balance.
Venerable ingredients are also finding their way back into
modern skin care regimens. Derma e, for example, uses activated
charcoal, a powerful natural skin detoxifier, in
its Purifying skin care regimen to cleanse and
reboot skin, according to Dr. Linda Miles, co-founder and chief formulator.
Miles is also a fan of bladderwrack
seaweed, a marine algae that is rich in nutrients
to help moisturize, and Kinamarine Wakame,
a patented marine algae that is clinically
proven to protect skin against environmental
pollutants, free radical damage and UVA
radiation. Both ingredients are incorporated
into derma e’s Purifying Deep Detox skin care regimen.
In fact, many workhorse ingredients are being used in conjunction with novel materials in today’s newest formulations.
Joey Chancis, founder of Joey New York and Labb Aesthetic
Beauty Bar, cited snail secretion as a standout new ingredient, but
told Happi her“go-to” materials include salicylic acid for blackheads, blemishes and large pores, hyaluronic acid for hydration
and retinol for smooth even skin tone and anti-aging.
“These are tried and true ingredients that really make a
An exclusive moringa
extract fuels this new balm
from Estée Lauder.
Linda Miles of