While there’s a heavy designer presence in the category these days, showcased by Burch’s and other
boldface brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci,
Michael Kors and Chanel, the music industry’s
influence on fine fragrance remains strong. New
rollouts are coming from women—and young
men—who lead the Billboard charts and are no
strangers to the fragrance scene.
Katy Perry, for example, is pitching Killer
Queen, which was created by Laurent Le
Guernec of IFF. The juice—housed in a
3.4oz bottle ($59) that is inspired by
a queen’s scepter—features top notes
of wild berry, bark plum and bergamot; the middle notes include red
velvet flower, natural jasmine sambac
and rainbow plumeria; the base features
cashmeran, natural patchouli and heart
liquid praline. Meanwhile Rihanna’s newest scent is Rogue by Rihanna, which features
lemon blossom, cyclamen, jasmine, rose, plum
and suede over a base of musk, woods, patchouli, vanilla and amber.
Fellow performer Justin Bieber is now
touting The Key, a fruity floral musk that hit
stores in July. It is Bieber’s third go-around in the category,
following Girlfriend and his blockbuster debut, Someday,
which racked up much media attention and sales too.
Yet eyes are now on another musical act that’s big with
tween girls—One Direction, a popular Brit boy band that has
made a foray into fragrance with Our Moment. Having recently hit Macy’s stores in the US after debuting in the UK
this past summer, the EDP is billed as a sparkling, juicy and
feminine fragrance featuring fresh fruit and seasonal flowers
infused with undertones of warm musk. Notes include pink
grapefruit, wild berries, redcurrants, jasmine petals, frangipani, musk and patchouli.
“We know how eagerly One Direction fans have waited
for the ‘Our Moment’ fragrance to launch
here in the United States, and are excited
to offer the collection nationwide and on
macys.com,” said Martine Reardon, Macy’s
chief marketing officer, in a press statement
when the scent hit Macy’s counters.
Our Moment isn’t the only British fragrance
invasion; Illuminum’s White Gardenia Petals, a.k.a.
the fragrance worn by Kate Middleton on her wed-
ding day back in 2011, has come across the pond
too. This high-end scent is now sold at Henri
Bendel in New York City and can be pur-
chased stateside via Bendel’s website.
While scents from Hollywood
A-listers and the like often ben-
efit from an established fan base,
there’s more to the equation, say
“There is no doubt that a celebrity fragrance launch is significantly
helped by a large fan base, and the
more dedicated they are to the celebrity the better, but if the product is bad
quality, or not appropriate for the audience
it is targeting, for example, too musky or too
floral, it will not survive long past the initial
launch. There must be a feature to the product that makes it stand up on its own, beyond the cult of the
celebrity,” said Nicole Desir, vice president of brand management at licensing agency Beanstalk.
According to Desir, Bieber and One Direction have opened
up the fragrance market to a much younger consumer.
“They have given them a product that they can aspire to
go out and buy themselves rather than being first introduced
to fragrance by a boyfriend, parent or relative, which is what
we would have expected before these young celebrity products were available.”
But she offered a caveat.
“If we want the fragrance category to continue to grow,”
she said, “it is important that we don’t squander the opportunity presented by the young consumer. We need to make
sure that the industry gets behind the right celebrities, helps
them to develop a great, high-quality product and guides that
product through a sustainable launch and marketing program
to ensure the young consumer values the fragrance experience
and stays on board.
That’s because no company—whether fragrance house or
record label—wants a one-hit wonder.
Desir pointed to Elizabeth Taylor, Mariah Carey, Halle Berry,
Britney Spears, Beyonce and Sarah Jessica Parker as success sto-
ries with “steady presence, who you see advertised, and who
command the most shelf space in the stores.”
PLAY“MIST”Y FOR ME
While body mist sales are up, traditional men’s and women’s fragrances
sold at mass market outposts aren’t faring as well as those sold at luxury
and prestige doors. Here is a look at total US multi-outlet (supermarkets,
drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club
and dollar retail chains) sales for the 52 weeks ended Sept. 8, 2013.
Men’s Traditional Fragrance $342.5 million - 3.38%
Men’s Body Mists $301.6 million 3.97%
Women’s Fragrance Experience $504.8 million - 4.11%
Women’s Body Mists $158.0 million 2.82%
Source: Infoscan Reviews, Information Resources, Inc. (IRI).
Our Moment is a new scent created by
Brit boy band One Direction.