OIL IS ON the rebound. No, not light, sweet Brent crude, we’re talking jojoba, neem, argan and more. Oils are ubiquitous in personal care formulas these days; they’re
used to moisturize, cleanse and pamper. That’s a 180° turn from
only a few year ago, when oils were considered to be the cause of
many skin maladies. But today, dermatologists and formulators
recognize that oils can play a key role in keeping skin and hair
looking healthy and youthful.
For example, L’Oréal Paris is rolling out Age Perfect Hydra-Nutrition Facial Oil SPF 30. The formula contains not one, but
eight essential oils (chamomile, lavender, English lavender, marjoram, peppermint, orange, rosemary and geranium). Together,
they are said to impart long-lasting hydration. For more on oils
and the growing importance that they play in skin care, see p. 71
in this issue.
More to the Story
But not every formulator is aware of what oil brings to the table.
According to some indus-
try observers, the clinical
benefits of natural oils
are not so well known.
Extracts & Ingredients is
out to spread the news
about goodness of these
materials. The company
held one-day symposia,
dubbed Awesome Oils, in
California and New Jersey
to explain the benefits of including jojoba and other oils in their
products. The events included presentations by Dermatologist
Jeanette Jacknin, MD, “Forgotten Clinical Benefits of Jojoba
Oil...a Classic;” Dr. Vijai Shukla, International Cosmetic Science
Centre Denmark, “New Horizons in the Application of Naturals
in Cosmetics Through Internal Stabilization Technology;” Steve
Hughes, Hughes & Company Ltd., “Intro to Essential Oils” and
Jonathan Regev, managing director, Jojoba Desert Ltd., “Global
Supply Issues for Jojoba Oil.”
jojoba is non-irritating and even has sunscreen applications. The
seed is 50% oil by weight, with 10% of global production coming
from the US; Israel accounts for most of the world’s supply.
“It is the only plant source of wax mono esters; jojoba is very
similar to human sebum,” she explained.
Jacknin pointed out that it is a great vehicle to promote percutaneous absorption of vitamins and other compounds. It’s no
wonder, then, that 95% of jojoba ends up in personal care and
health care products. Jojoba has been proven to increase skin
elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines in just one hour.
“It provides a mini facelift,” she insisted.
Jojoba is an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and even has antimicrobial properties according to Jacknin. It not only moisturizes and softens the skin by forming a lipid barrier, it also has
applications as a makeup remover, nail and cuticle treatment, and
improves both oily and dry hair.
Take Care of Your Oils
In his remarks, Shukla noted that inflammation is the cause of
all disease, while omega 3 fatty acids reduce inflammation and
may help lower risk of chronic diseases such as heart disease,
cancer and arthritis. Clearly, lipids play a dominant role in hu-
man health, but Shukla warned that oxidation is the enemy of ev-
erything; especially oils. He explained that several factors impact
lipid stability, including light, heat, water, enzymes and oxygen.
“Oils are so sensitive, so don’t torture them!” he joked.
Shukla noted that cosmetic chemists battle fight crystallization of fats all the time. To win the battle, he recommended heating batches to 80°C.
The health benefits of oils are obvious. Consulting Chemist
Susan Piro provided several formulations to attendees including
anhydrous jojoba serum,“skin food” night cream and“good to go”
anhydrous hand balm.
With so many oils to choose from and so many personal care
applications to use them, it’s no wonder Extracts & Ingredients
and its partners are so bullish about the boom in oil. •
Extracts & Ingredients’ one-day symposia
on the East and West coasts highlight
the newest ideas in efficacious oils for the
personal care market.
Ninety-five percent of jojoba production
ends up in personal care and health care
Jojoba is just one of many natural oil with a wide range of benefits
in personal care formulations.