PRESERVATIVE MARKET UPDATE
technologies which are globally accepted or broadly available,
noted Hummel, who added that the combination of constantly
evolving regulations and customer preferences has made the job
of developing global formulations very challenging.
Yet, not every new regulation has the same impact on preservative suppliers, their customers or the end-consumer, according to Green, who told Happi that the bans of quaternium 15 in
the EU, and benzyl, pentyl and phenylparaben did not affect the
beauty industry whatsoever since these ingredients have almost
never been used in cosmetics. Also, the restriction of CMIT/MIT
to rinse-off products has had little effect.
“The banning of the isoparabens makes little difference for
those who use the blends that contain isobutylparaben, because
there are straightforward replacements like Sharon’s phenochem
NIB, Sharomix 824 and many others,” said Green.
He went on to explain that the future for MIT is in question,
as it seems likely, but not yet certain, that a much lower maximum concentration will be permitted in the EU.
Inolex develops mainly multifunctional materials that are viewed
positively by regulatory agencies, according to Dan Winn, since
they have much milder toxicological and environmental effects
as compared to biocides.
“So, from this perspective, the regulatory situation is posi-
tive,” he explained. “On the other hand, for those cosmetic com-
panies that prefer to use biocides the situation is becoming more
“Our non-traditional, multifunctional systems are tested to
the same high standards as our traditional preservative blends,”
explained Sedlewicz. “Our sensiva PA 40, launched last year, is
effective enough to allow high SPF sunscreens to pass challenge
testing without the use of a traditional preservative.”
This blend of natural Zemea propanediol, with a nature-iden-
tical fragrance compound and a gentle synthetic moisturizer can
be used alone or in combination with a chelating agent at levels
very similar to more traditional preservative blends, according to
With the traditional preservative palette growing more limited, Winn warned that it the end of an era of using traditional
biocides as cosmetic preservatives.
“There is now a once-in-a-generation shift away from biocides to using the“hurdle technology,” glycols, acids and other
multi-functional materials with secondary benefits as preservatives,” he explained.
Salicylates and Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. (SCPL) has launched
four paraben-free, formaldehyde-free and isothiazolinone-
free preservatives with multifunctional benefits, according to
Krishna Sarvaiya. Saliguard EHG (ethylhexylglycerin) is mul-
tifunctional ingredient with applications as skin conditioning
agent, a deodorant agent and a preservative/preservative booster.
Saliguard EHGP (ethylhexylglycerin/phenoxyethanol) provides
broad spectrum protection against bacteria, yeast and mold.
Saliguard EZ (ethylhexylglycerin/1, 3 propane diol) acts as an
emollient and a solubilizer for various extracts. Finally, Saliguard
EU (ethylhexylglycerin/undecylenic acid) acts as a versatile skin
Green noted that the negative press surrounding traditional
preservative systems has created a substantial market for natural
and/or alternative preservatives. He warned, however, that natural preservatives must often be used at high concentrations to
be effective preservatives, which can cause color, odor, or texture
issues to the end products. Even at high concentrations, most
natural preservatives are not as effective as traditional synthetic
preservatives, Green maintained.
“Whether natural preservatives are safer than traditional
preservatives is still under discussion; naturals have not been as
extensively tested for safety as synthetic preservatives,” he observed. “The new trends become critical when some companies
use a very mild, unsuitable preservative system, unwittingly taking risks. Unsuitably preserved products can cause skin irritation,
infections, blindness, and even death.”
Preservative-Free and Die?
It may not carry the same cache as New Hampshire’s State Motto,
Live Free or Die, but more than a few marketers take pleasure in
touting their formulas as being“preservative-free.”
The negative press over traditional preservatives has caused
some manufacturers to seek natural, green, or“preservatives free”
alternatives, noted Green of Sharon Laboratories. This move-
ment against traditional preservatives has created a substantial
market for natural and/or alternative preservatives—even when
there are drawbacks.
“Natural preservatives must often be used at high concentra-
tions to be effective preservatives, which can cause color, odor,
or texture issues to the end products,” explained Green. “Even at
high concentrations, most natural preservatives are not as effec-
tive as traditional synthetic preservatives.”
Whether natural preservatives are safer than traditional pre-
servatives is still under discussion, he added, noting that natu-
rals have not been as extensively tested for safety as synthetic
“The new trends become critical when some companies use
a very mild, unsuitable preservative system, unwittingly taking
risks,”observed Green.“Unsuitably preserved products can cause
skin irritation, infections, blindness, and even death. We take a
more responsible approach; all our blends are based on intensive research because we understand the big responsibility we
Suppliers, then, struggle with keeping products safe for