Feature Headline
Feature Deck
June 2017 happi.com happi • 67
First Last • Title
IN PERSONAL CARE, the product form and delivery systems go hand-in-hand in shaping the product experience and build- ing brand recognition among consumers. A few innovations
in this area have included foaming facial milk, sprays for skin
protection and relief, and air-cushion foundations. The success of
such products depends on the choice of key ingredients, as they
dictate the stability of the product as well as the ability to deliver
expected performance and consumer experience.
Sprayable formulas have always been popular for sun care
and body care products broadly applied to the skin. They are
also popular for the fast-growing segment that addresses the
demands of active lifestyles. Among such products, emulsion-based sprays are gaining popularity as they offer a special advantage of avoiding the skin irritation that a consumer may
experience from ethanol-based products, or water-based, one-phase systems that are usually easier to make and more common in the market.
Foams have traditionally been associated with rinse-off products, but nowadays they are appearing in leave-on applications
such as foaming masks, mousse and foaming essence. Even in
rinse-off applications, there is a noticeable growth in wash-off
masks that foam while remaining on your
skin before being washed off.
Since their introduction in recent years,
air-cushion packages have been quickly
adopted for use in color cosmetic products
such as foundations, BB creams and CC
creams. The sponge-and-puff combina-
tion in an air cushion may allow a more
natural look with the use of a foundation
because it can provide better distribution
of the product on the skin, and noticeably
reduce an uneven appearance. Therefore,
air cushion packages are expanding the
ways in which conventional liquid foundations can be used. They
also fit the on-the-go lifestyles of consumers who want to carry a
product for a touch-up during the day or before an evening event
if they are not returning home.
Why They Are Popular
In applications such as sun care, high levels of organic or inorganic UV filters give products a heavy skin feel. This can be alleviated,
to a certain extent, via spray form that provides a comparatively
light skin feel and easy rub-in. A spray form may improve the
efficacy of UV protection compared to a lotion by reaching areas
that might otherwise be missed and achieving a more even distribution. However, spray delivery and coverage are critical for adequate sun protection. Sun sprays are also considered less messy
and more convenient so they are easier for a person to reapply to
themselves, to children or others. They also fit the on-the-go lifestyle of beach-goers and outdoor enthusiasts compared to other
application forms, such as creams or lotions which take longer to
apply. In addition, the spray form product may provide a feeling
of refreshment during and after sport activities when skin temperature is elevated and there is a higher level of sweat and sebum on the skin.
In leave-on applications, sensory attributes of a product, how it feels during
application, are often a purchase decision
determinant. Compared to conventional
creams and lotions, foam-based products
deliver new consumer experiences with
pleasing air-infused textures. Foams may
also improve product performance through
ease of spreadability and better skin coverage. In the special case of wash-off masks,
some foaming bubble formulas claim
to unclog pores and perform a deeper
Brian Yang, Ph.D • Evonik Corporation
Formulating for
SUCCESS
Selecting the right ingredients plays a critical role in
developing sprays, foams and air-cushion foundations,
according to Evonik.
Evonik’s pump spray concepts (above) impart good
skin feel to sunscreens.