An update on nature-identical ingredients for cosmetics and personal care products.
DRIVEN BY CONSUMERS’ insatiable appetite for natural in- gredients in their beauty and personal care products, formulators will continue to seek out natural extracts,
botanicals and actives to drive their formulations. But the cosmetic and personal care sector faces growing concern about
sustainable business practices and depletion of vital resources.
Couple this with the need for reliable batch-to-batch consistency
related to performance and other factors (like price), and it’s easy
to see why crafting products with natural ingredients has become
a more complicated endeavor—and why nature-identical materials can provide a solution.
One such ingredient caught the attention of the team behind Erasa XEP- 30 Extreme Line Lifting and Rejuvenation
Concentrate, which was rolled out just one year ago and this
April won the 2016 “Breakthrough Face Product” award from
totalbeauty.com. The formulation was crafted by Jules Zecchino,
chief scientist with BioMimetics Laboratories.
With a history of working with cutting-edge ingredients as
former head of R&D at Estée Lauder, Zecchino formulated the
Erasa concentrate with a roster of neuropeptides including XEP-
30, a synthetic biomimetic snail neurotoxin with the ability to
relax expression lines. This key ingredient was developed exclusively by for BioMimetic Laboratories Inc. by a Swiss firm.
“This is the future,” Zecchino said about biomimetics/nature-identical ingredients that provide“functionality without stripping
nature of resources.”
Today’s advanced extraction processes create new materials that
harness—and enhance—the best of what Mother Nature has to
offer in a more sustainable manner. Options range from antioxidants to preservatives that can be used in a wide range of applications from anti-aging skin care to hair care.
Naturex’s Eutectys botanical collection is a prime example.
With a patented extraction process called Eutectigenesis that offers a natural alternative to conventional solvents, the company
says it can capture a plant cell’s most precious metabolites to obtain biomimetic extracts with “augmented” phytoactive profiles
and improved performance.
“With this technology, we are bringing value to the market of
natural extracts,” Stephanie Puel, director of Naturex’s personal
care business unit, told Happi in a phone interview about the
line, which has several extracts, including saffron flower, sea fen-
nel, rose of Jericho, olive leaf, horsetail and rosemary.
According to Naturex, Eutectys delivers greater concentration
of actives and/or a richer composition, and the ingredients have
attributes that are must-haves for modern-day formulators—
they are 100% natural (Ecocoert and Cosmos approved), easily
biodegradable and have no preservatives.
Hydroxytyrosol is a plant secondary metabolite with a bevy
of benefits that range from anti-inflammatory properties to an
ORAC value that is 30 times higher than that of vitamin C, making
it a coveted antioxidant. While hydroxytyrosol is found in olives
and olive leaves, its extraction can be complex and cost-intensive.
However, through a novel process, Wacker offers HTEssence hydroxytyrosol, which exhibits significantly higher purity with an
exactly defined active substance content. The production process
not only offers supply security, but also ensures that HTEssence
does not contain any unwanted byproducts or contaminants, according to Wacker.
On the preservative front, schülke offers cosmetic chemists
broad spectrum, nature-identical preservative blends and antimicrobial stabilizers that meet critical performance criteria.
“For a preservative to perform effectively, all aspects of its
composition must be carefully controlled; any variability can allow contamination in the hands of the consumer. Contaminated
product can cause infection and could trigger the FDA to issue a
recall. Natural materials tend to vary significantly in composition
depending on the growing conditions. Nature-identical materials can be manufactured so that all of the variables can be more
tightly controlled, providing more reliable preservation,” noted
Linda B. Sedlewicz, country manager, schülke inc.
The company’s nature-identical products, which are tested to
the same strict standards as its traditional preservative systems,
include sensiva PA 40, which contains naturally-derived, nature-identical and mild synthetic materials to offer microbiological
stabilization at use levels similar to many traditional preservative
“Adequate preservation should always be a priority. Whether
it is a traditional preservative system or a nature-identical system,
Christine Esposito • Associate Editor