From primers to pressed powders, facial cosmetics help create the illusion
of a flawless complexion.
Christine Esposito • Associate Editor
• happi happi.com July 2016
WOMEN WANT to look their best. Or better. And some want to look like Kim Kardashian. And that’s where makeup takes center stage.
“There are two different makeup realities out there right
now,”noted Sebastien Tardif, co-founder of Veil Cosmetics. One
is heavy, makeup“drag/Kardashian/90’s” transformative make-up, and the other is fresh, bright natural glowing skin with the
occasional color or feature accent.
“The former,” Tardif said, “is essentially living behind the
camera on social media like Instagram (IG) and is popular
with Millennials. The latter is what you see in beauty editorials,
fashion magazines and fashion shows (beauty done by actual
makeup professionals not bloggers) as well as in real life, on the
street. The interesting fact is that when I post on my IG page a
fresh/natural glowing complexion, the quantity of likes is off the
charts. I think people appreciate and admire the transformative
aspect of makeup, but relate a lot more to a weightless looking
beauty and that’s never going to go out of style.”
Makeup artist Sally Duvall, who trained under Kevyn
Aucoin and has been touted by Allure and New York Magazine
as being among New York City’s top makeup artists, looks for
“makeup that doesn’t look like makeup,” she told Happi. “And
I think most women do which is why we are seeing the rise of
BB/CC creams and serum foundations.”
Makeup and More
The beauty marketplace has seen a surge in these hybrid skin
care/makeup products alongside more traditional pressed pow-
ders and liquids, prep products and an up-and-coming contend-
er, the cushion compact. This wide array of formats—and some
enticing from social media—has helped today’s consumers to
achieve looks they desire quickly and effectively, whether their
goal is to appear au natural or“on fleek.”
With both looks, time is of the essence—in terms of how
quickly it can be applied and how long it will last.
“Women are looking for fast beauty solutions that offer multi-
tasking possibilities and makeup that does not feel mask-like but
rather weightless and that stays put all day,” added Tardif.
“Ease of use is an overarching trend,” noted Shannon
Romanowski, director, Mintel Reports, Health, Household,
Beauty & Personal Care.
Mintel’s research finds that social media and high-tech tools
are fueling the makeup sector. Products like Sephora’s Pocket
Contour app, L’Oréal Make-up Genius and YouCam Makeup,
and the seemingly endless vault of material from bloggers and
vloggers, has brought contouring and strobing techniques to
the masses, enticing everyday women to test the waters with
“The consumer is much more empowered than she was before,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst with The
NPD Group, noting the role social media has played in easing
the fear factor when it comes to makeup application.
Their willingness to experiment has been a boon to the beauty business. According to NPD, the US prestige beauty industry
rose 7% to $16 billion in 2015, with makeup experiencing the
healthiest sales growth at 13% for the year, driven by concealer
and facial products like primers and contour, highlighting and
sculpting kits. NPD data shows that following dramatic growth
between 2014, BB cream dollar sales are down, but demand for
CC products continues to rise (see chart below).
MAKING THE GRADE
Here is a look at alphabet cream performance in US prestige beauty, as recorded by NPD Group Inc.
(Total Measured Market, 12 Months Ending April 2016)
Dollars Dollars Percent Change
Alphabet Creams 12 Months (May ’13-’ 14) 12 Months (May' 14 - Apr' 15) 12 Months (May ’15-April ‘ 16) 12 Months (May ’14- April’ 15) 12 Months (May ’15- April ’ 16)
BB $88.3M $105.4M $95.0M 19% -10%
CC $59.7M $82.9M $113.3M 39% 37%