make Brazil difficult to navigate, “there is an energy in Brazil that
makes everything possible.”
Things are possible these days because the Brazilian government
is more willing to develop the country’s biodiversity with companies
that respect the general principles of sustainable development and
also follow the Nagoya Protocol, which calls for the fair and equitable
sharing of benefits that arise from the utilization of genetic resources.
He explained that it is crucial for companies to work with CGEN,
Brazil’s Council for the Management of Genetic Patrimony, a federal
government organization that monitors, audits and considers requests
for access to genetic resources of Brazilian Biodiversity.
Molina gave attendees a brief history lesson on the country, noting
that the country derives its name from the brazilwood tree, which was
its earliest commercially-exploited product. In Portuguese, brazilwood
is called pau-brasil, with the word brasil commonly given the etymol-ogy,“red like an ember.” Even its flag has its roots in nature, with the
green representing forests; yellow, its mineral wealth, blue, the sky and
the 27 stars, the federal district and its 26 states. And while much focus is put on the Amazon, Molina said the Mata Atlantica or Atlantic
Forest region offers just as much biodiversity. The population is diverse, too. Eighteen generations of interracial mixing has produced a
population that includes: White, 53%; Mulatto, 22%; Mestizo, 12%;
Black, 11%; Japanese, 1%; and other, 1%.
Sergio Oliveira of Johnson & Johnson said UV protection will
become increasingly important in Brazil and the sun care market is
growing more than 12% a year.
“Even in winter there is high UV exposure, and it is extreme in
summer,” he told the audience. Like consumers in other countries,
Brazilians don’t apply sunscreen evenly, only 33-50% apply enough
sunscreen on initial application and only 30% of them reapply.
This year, Brazil’s National Health Surveillance Agency, ANVISA,
revised and simplified its cosmetic registration process to be inline
with European regulations, said Oliveira.
“The government wants to help companies with their innovation
projects,” he insisted.“The next time that you think of Brazil, remem-
ber that it is a great place for vacation, but it is even better to conduct
Emiro Khury, EK Consulting, reviewed the technological ad-
vances and regulatory issues surrounding sunscreen products in Latin
America, noting that consumers care more about sensorial properties
over safety; although SPF 30 + 50 are the most popular levels of protec-
tion. Khury said that Mexico and Brazil are the best sun care markets
in Latin America, but Peru and Chile also offer growth opportunities.
“Consumers want high SPF and light, refreshing products,” he
Brazil is the largest fragrance market in the world, with retail sales
of $7 billion, according to Ana Palombo of Coty. The mass market accounts for a whopping 92% of sales.
“Brazilians have European roots, but they want to consume like
Americans,”she explained.“They are brand conscious, well-informed
and believe anything imported is better.”
Women are at the center of the culture and a force in the work-
place, she said. They have high self-esteem, are vain, and have less
than two kids per household. Palombo described Brazilians as reli-
gious and superstitious, too.
Natura (43%), Boticario (27%) and Avon (18%) are the key players in the Brazilian fragrance market. By channel, direct sales (59%) is
most popular, followed by franchise, supermarket, perfumery, pharmacy and department stores. And what are they buying? Body sprays
and splashes and lots of them.
“People take three showers a day and they want to feel fresh,”she
explained.“Fragrance is used by everyone, which is why a liter of fragrance splash can be found in every bathroom in Brazil,”said Palombo.
Women prefer fruity florals and fruity oriental notes—not heavy
florals. Men prefer citrus notes, but are slowly moving toward more
complex vanilla and woody accords. But whatever they buy, Brazilians
will keep buying more and more. Palombo predicted that Brazil will
account for 30% of global fine fragrance sales by the end of 2015.
More on Materials
Silvia Staniscuaski Guterres, a professor of pharmacology at the
Federal University of Rio Grande in Sao Paulo, called nanotechnology
a good tool for developing innovative products. Nano-sized materials
can provide control release, reduce toxicity and increase efficacy.
“Nanotechnology gives safer, more stable formulations with better properties,” she insisted, noting that when vitamin K1 is nano-sized, it can be applied to the delicate eye skin area without causing
irritation. Similarly, the irritation profile of capsaicinoids is reduced by
means of a nano-structured formulation that is based on polymeric
particles and a hydrogel. Guterres also explained how researchers are
using nanotechnology to encapsulate Brazilian raw materials, such as
Cupuaçu butter, to improve delivery and substantivity.
Rakesh Jain of Amyris noted that Brazil’s biggest crop is sugarcane,
and by fermenting it with yeast it produces a range of useful materials
including ethanol, squalene, fragrance and biofene.
“Companies are exploring what biofermentation can do for them,”
For example squalene produced via biofermentation has all the
properties found in products derived from sharks without the impu-rities associated with olive-derived squalene. Amyris’ product, called
Neossance, is a 100% plant-based emollient that is Ecocert-approved.
It aids in cell turnover, reduces TEWL at 50% and, in clinical tests, improved wrinkles after 28 days. It is already being incorporated into personal care products, according to Jain, who predicted that Neossance
will find widespread use in baby care products too. •
Morning session speakers included (l-r): Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi, co-chairman Steve Herman, Dawn Thiel Glaser and Eddy S. Mayen.