myristoyl tripeptide- 31, subjects saw the number of wrinkles reduced by 30%, wrinkle length reduced by 33% and wrinkle area
reduced by 35%. The material also provided skin-lightening effects after 12 weeks of use.
Ethnic & Emerging Markets
The world is changing as economic growth moves toward Asia and
ethnic populations increase in more mature markets. The SCC devoted a session to products for these consumers in a session moderated by Howard Epstein of EMD Chemicals. Zoe Draelos, Duke
University, reviewed the unique needs of ethnic consumers and
consumers in emerging markets who want even skin pigmentation, skin lightening, sun protection, a reduction in ashiness and
dryness, and infection, sebum and perspiration control.
Based on their Fitzpatrick Skin Types, lighter skinned individuals (Types I-II) have an epidermal SPF of 3. 4. In contrast, darker
skinned people (Type III, IV and V) have an epidermal SPF of 13. 4.
Still, Draelos noted that black skin gets hotter than white skin and
that sun protection products should focus on heat dissipation.
She also called for more attention to skin health in emerging
markets, pointing out that skin hygiene is key to infection control
in the developing world. Although hand sanitizers are very effective in improving the health of consumers in these regions, more
work needs to be done, according to Draelos.
“Infection is the leading cause of infant and maternal death (in
emerging markets),”she concluded.“(These markets) need cleansers
that work in dirty, cold water, are non-toxic and low foaming.”
Mike Farwick of Evonik Industries, explained how tetrapeptide
PKEK modulates skin tone and is effective on age spots, acne le-
sions, melasma and skin tone intensity, too. In one study, facial pig-
ment spots significantly faded after six weeks when 40ppm PKEK
was combined with 1.5% of the skin whitener sodium ascorbyl
phosphate, compared to either ingredient alone. Farwick cautioned,
however, that the choice of emollient, emulsifier and penetration
enhancer, all have a major impact on the formula’s efficacy.