YEAH, BUT HOW DOES
IT MAKE YOU FEEL?
An update on the growing importance of creating a sensory dimension in cosmetics
Imogen Matthews • In-Cosmetics
PERSONAL CARE products are expected to deliver so much more than functional benefits, and as a result, texture and sensation are as important as any performance attributes.
Ingredients that create sensations of coolness, warmth and comfort bring an additional dimension to formulations and make for
a more premium experience, while new technologies are providing unusual and novel texture sensations.
Datamonitor’s new report entitled Sensory Ingredients in
Personal Care takes a look at the latest innovations in terms of
ingredients, technology and finished products. In skin care, for
example, texture can be an important way of delivering the feeling of an instant effect through ingredients that tighten, tingle or
feel warm on the skin.
These sensations appeal to consumers who want to see and
experience noticeable results from products such as moisturizers
and anti-aging treatments. Examples include diamond powder,
which is used to help scatter light and blur the appearance of
lines and wrinkles, while fermented capsicum helps raise skin
temperature and increase blood circulation in order to improve
According to Datamonitor, the main sensorial textures include skin feel, cooling and warming agents, tightening/firming
and plumping, while fragrance can be used to evoke memory and
mood. A relatively new trend in fragrance is for soft, enveloping
scents reminiscent of cashmere and the smell can be achieved using different ingredients, such as musk indanone, used to mimic
the smooth soft feel of cashmere wool. It is used in many modern
perfume formulas and also used for its staying power in everyday
products from soap to shampoo to deodorant.
How They Rate
Datamonitor’s Consumer Global Survey 2013 highlighted the
importance of sensory benefits in consumers’ product choice.
Globally, 37% of women and 28% of men rated sensory benefits
as having a high influence when choosing personal hygiene benefits, with fragrance featuring as a key sensory benefit. A third of
women globally place a high importance on sensory benefits in
hair care and skin care. In its report, Datamonitor observed that
whereas a luxury feel was once the preserve of high-end premium brands, it is becoming a prerequisite of many mass-market
New technologies, such as Dow Chemical’s EcoSmooth
Delight, a versatile sensory modifier, are making high-end con-sumer-perceived sensory benefits in skin care applications without the typical cost associated with a luxury feel.
One of the key sensorial benefits in personal care products is skin
comfort, which is achieved through the addition of emulsifiers
and silicones. Increasingly, natural alternatives to petroleum-based products have become available, such as Lexfeel N Series
Light my fire. Products that warm the skin often
warm the hearts of consumers.