MANY OF THE TECHNOLOGIES found in skin care today can be traced to the professional skin care market. This is unsur- prising, given that brands such as Clarins and Decleor
have a strong presence in each of these growth categories. Like
mainstream skin care, the professional skin care sector has emerged
from the economic downturn in good shape with above average
growth in many countries.
According to Kline Group, the professional skin care market was
valued at $9.3 billion in 2012 at retail and was expected to grow by
5.4% in 2013.
“The Chinese economy has rebounded, so Asia is fairly strong,”
said Karen Doskow, industry manager, consumer products, Kline.
“We are also seeing a resurgence in the US, while Brazil and Eastern
Europe, especially Russia and Poland, are coming through strongly.”
The distribution of professional skin care varies by region. In the
US, it is sold in medical channels, such as through physician’s offices,
whereas elsewhere it is available in pharmacies or in specialist department store distribution. For example, in the UK, Selfridges sells
Dermalogica in its Beauty Workshop area.
As in retail skin care, anti-aging is a very strong trend in the professional skin care sector and most brands now have anti-aging serums in their portfolio. Sun care products are also growing fast from
a small base. At the recent International Spa Association’s (ISPA) annual conference in Las Vegas, there was a big emphasis on peels and
innovative at-home beauty devices.
“Consumers will mix and match and will happily buy a
SkinCeuticals serum and a cleanser from Sephora,”stated Doskow.
Leading professional skin care brand Dermalogica has tapped
into the trend for peels with its Active Resurface 35 treatment that
launched last year. It is a professional treatment that is custom-izable to individual skin requirements, using Dermalogica’s Face
Mapping skin analysis along with a thorough consultation. The
hero formulation within the treatment is the Exfoliant Accelerator
35, an AHA-BHA concentrate containing active skin smoothing
lactic acid and salicylic acid, along with proteolytic enzymes and
peptides to boost exfoliation for ultra smooth skin. A key claim of
the treatment is the lack of inflammation, tissue damage and peeling generally associated with intense resurfacing treatments.
Spa brand Jan Marini offers so-called “lunch-time” glycolic
peels that are quick treatments and makeup that can be applied
immediately after the peel. The AHA Glycolic Peel is derived from
sugar cane and is said to be more effective at penetrating the skin
than other alpha hydroxy acids. Apart from sloughing away dull
rough skin, Jan Marini claims that scientific studies have found
that acid plumps up overall skin texture and cellular activity,
slowing the aging process and reversing damage caused by the
sun. The peel is also said to help reduce cell buildup and even
reduce the appearance of scarring.
Jan Marini also has a Bioglycolic home treatment range, containing seven products for the face, hands and body, based on
glycolic acid. The formulation maximizes bioavailability for optimal results and each product is optimized for pH and acid combination and concentration.
Professional Anti-Acne Products
“Acne is an important area in professional skin care,” affirmed
In Product Development
Doskow, who has noticed a trend toward the treatment of different
kinds of acne, such as hormonal, adult onset acne and teen acne.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, acne is
the most common skin concern in the US, affecting 40-50 million
Imogen Matthews • In-Cosmetics
Dermatology’s Critical Role
Innovative ideas at prestige skin care counters and on drugstore shelves can often
be traced back to the doctor’s office. Here’s a closer look at how dermatology and
professional skin care impacts the mainstream.
They’re not just for
doctors’ offices anymore. Now consumers can
get the benefits of devices in
the privacy of their homes.