• happi happi.com February 2015 42
A new year, yes, but many of the same issues will dominate the personal
care space, according to Evonik executives.
IS THIS THE YEAR that sustainability takes a leap forward in the collective conscience of US consumers, retailers and their suppliers? Paul Washlock, VP-personal care, Evonik North
America, certainly thinks so.
“In 2015, sustainability will be key,”he insisted. The real question, he added, is whether or not suppliers understand the issue
and can meet the needs of their customers and the consumers.
“Can we stay on top of this issue and take the lead on this
issue?” he asked.
Washlock and the Evonik team are confident that they offer
the right solutions for today’s personal care product formulators.
On the sustainability front, last year, Evonik began offering customers materials such as emulsifiers and consistency enhancers
that have been certified in accordance with the standard of the
Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO). The company has
been an ordinary member of the RSPO since 2010. The aim of this
multi-stakeholder association is to promote the production and
use of sustainable palm oil.
Before that, in 2013, Evonik achieved cosmetic GMP (ISO
22716) confirmation for its North American sites. ISO 22716
refers to the manufacturing process of cosmetics as well as raw
materials. It includes guidelines for quality-related aspects of a
product. This confirmation guarantees that Evonik focuses on
the appropriate principles and methods during production, controlling, storage and distribution. The company’s European sites
were accredited in 2012.
“Our customers know that they are getting quality if the supplier follows ISO,” explained Washlock.
Customers are also getting some innovative ideas when they
source materials from Evonik as well. For example, at last year’s
annual meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, the company presented posters on a key ingredient for body washes and
shampoos (Tego Sulfoccinate DO 75), a raw material for men’s
hair care formulations (Sphingony) and a new selection matrix
called Senses that helps formulators choose emollients for developing desirable sensory attributes such as skin feel, desired performance benefits and even environmental benefits.
Sulfoccinate DO 75 is an anionic surfactant that imparts
stability with a dense foam and is said to be good for damaged
hair, as it is suitable for body washes and shampoos with high
oil content (up to 50%) and good foaming effect Furthermore,
the material is compatible with anionic, amphoteric and nonionic
surfactants. Sulfoccinate DO 75 is PEG-free and is easy to formulate with even without heat, according to Anna Howe, applied
technology manager, North America, consumer specialties, personal care, Evonik Industries.
“It is good for critically-damaged hair. We achieved a top
score on dry hair without a silicone,” she told Happi. “We have
been sharing the news with customers and getting great feedback. It has a good sustainability profile.”
Sphingony sphingolipids are the naturally occurring, skin-identical molecule called Sphinganine. Particularly with androgenic alopecia, Sphingony targets hair loss by balancing the hair
life cycle, strengthening the hair follicle and improving scalp
health—a critical element to meet the growing needs of male
“We see momentum in men’s care,” explained Howe.
The material is COSMOS-certified and Ecocert-approved.
“In 2015, we have a lot of growth opportunities due to our innovative products,” noted Washlock. “Formulators are looking at
new things and we have 300 products to offer them.”
And among those hundreds of products, there are plenty of
sustainable, effective solutions for cosmetic chemists.•
Tom Branna • Editorial Director
Paul Washlock Anna Howe