SKIN CARE companies know consumers mean business when it comes to performance. There’s an ever-increasing array of new moisturizers, serums and creams that promise to
improve skin clarity, tone and texture. But formulators beware—
results that don’t come to fruition or one bad experience (think
irritation) can seal the fate of a product’s repeat purchase.
“While efficacy is at the forefront of our development process,
so is consumer experience. Striking a balance between finding
the most efficacious, hard-working combinations of ingredients
while maintaining the look and feel of a skin care product is
something we pride ourselves on,” said Smitha Rao, vice president, product development at StriVectin.
Based on recent sales data, consumers appear to be happy
with offerings from StriVectin and other leading brands sold
through prestige channels. According to third quarter numbers
crunched by The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY, skin care
sales between July and September 2016 rose 5% to $1.1 billion.
Growth in facial masks continued to outpace the overall market,
with dollar sales increasing 28%. Also faring well were lip treatments, with dollar sales up 23% and face supplements, where
dollar sales have more than doubled, according to NPD.
As any chemist will attest, the best skin care treatments begin
with active ingredients. In 2016, brands rely on both traditional
workhorses—think retinol, peptides and AHAs—as well as new
ingredients that have caught the attention of their R&D teams,
and, if all goes as planned, will catch consumers’fancy too.
Avon, which recently teamed up with dermatologist and
cosmetic surgeon Dr. Kim Nichols, is best known for its game-
changing Anew brand, which broke new territory in mass mar-
ket skin care in the early 1990s with its AHA-driven technology.
Most recently, the company expanded the Anew line with Anew
Ultimate Supreme Advanced Performance Créme. It is formu-
lated with the“most potent levels of exclusive Celluvive complex
and Tahitian black pearl essence,” which is known to improve
skin’s ability to retain moisture, according to the direct seller.
Researchers at True Results, a Biotone company, view retinol as a key workhorse ingredient. The firm has rolled out a new
system called True Results Retinol Active Skincare, which has six
products formulated to decrease fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration associated with natural skin aging.
“I wanted to offer women an affordable anti-aging skin care
system that does what it claims to do,” Jean Shea, True Results
founder and president said in a statement.“Many products prom-
ise a lot, but provide limited or no results. With our Retinol Active
Skincare System…women can enjoy the anti-aging benefits of
retinol, which normally are associated with higher-priced retinol
skin care offerings.”
Retinol Active Skincare System uses TruSR technology, which
combines maximum levels of active retinol with patented hydra-
tors making it highly effective yet gentle, according to the com-
pany. Products include True Results Retinol Night Cream, which
is available in maximum strength 1% active or 0.5% active, and
True Results Retinol Eye Serum with .25% active, which reduces
the appearance of fine lines around the eyes.
Indeed, brands must take care when formulating treatments
for the eye zone; it is more sensitive, much thinner and seems to
be more prone to showing signs of aging from dehydration, stress
and a lack of sleep, noted Jamie Palmer, BSN, RN, who works in
research and development for Osmosis Pur Medical Skincare.
To treat the area, Palmer cited a trio of key ingredients, led by
“Niacinamide is an amazing ingredient to use in skin care,
which is why, more and more, you see it in all sorts of products
Christine Esposito • Associate Editor
Perform or PERISH
Success in today’s skin care sector begins with active ingredients, formulated
in products that address modern-day issues.
StriVectin is tackling “tech neck” with active ingredients designed
to combat skin woes stemming from a modern day habit.