ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN SKIN CARE
online, but Alosio has plans to expand via
the direct sales route (which he describes
as the original social network), to give the
company the best opportunity to explain
Élan Rose International’s philosophy and
the benefits of its products. Alosio expects
to build the business in Asia too, primarily
Korea, Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia.
“Our biggest competitors are Mary Kay
and Amway, not to mention smaller local
companies,” he acknowledged. “But there
are a lot of opportunities. Skin care is a
huge market and every consumer is always
looking for something new.”
Its parent company, Valeant, has drawn the ire of FDA in the
ethical pharmaceutical sector, but that hasn’t stopped Strivectin
from improving existing formulas in recent months. Strivectin
Advanced Retinol Intensive Night Moisturizer is said to be
stronger and faster at promoting hydration and visible skin
firmness than its predecessor.
Like other companies, Strivectin is harnessing the power of
B3, in this case to convert retinol into retinoic acid. According
to the company, its NIA-114 molecule is one of the most effective forms of vitamin B3 compared to niacinamide. The formula
also contains retinol to improve surface cell turnover; copper
tripeptides to help revitalize and protect skin; hyaluronic acid to
hydrate, improve the skin barrier and replenish skin; and shea
butter to promote elasticity to visibly firm and hydrate skin.
After four weeks of use, 94% of test subjects reported an improvement in smoothness, 88% had an improvement in hydration, and 83% reported improvement in firmness and radiance.
The formula retails for $112 for a 50ml tube.
That hero ingredient, NIA-114, can be found in Strivectin’s
new Advanced Retinol Pore Refiner, too. The formula also contains marine exopolysaccharide to smooth and soften skin texture, oligosaccharides to reduce sebum production, and ginger
root extract and bisabolol to reduce the appearance of redness
The daily moisturizing lotion reportedly reduces pore size
by 50%. The company said after four weeks, 96% of test subjects felt their skin was smoother and softer, 93% felt pores were
tighter, 89% saw an improvement in the appearance of enlarged
pores and felt skin was firmer; and 85% felt skin was more hydrated. A 50ml tube retails for $99.
Of course, all of this technology is useless if the consumer
doesn’t use the products correctly and make changes to their
“I’ll speak with a 55-year-old woman who wants a facial
treatment and wants to see things happen immediately,” said
Amos Lavian, founder of Dermelect Cosmeceuticals. “I tell her if
you’ve been in the sun for 25 years it won’t happen in 25 days.”
Women have to use the products and adjust their lifestyle,
“You can’t stay up until 3am every
day eating Snickers! But all kidding
aside, we try to provide customers with
the tools that they need to achieve their
But they must be reasonable goals.
“At 60, you won’t look like Kylie
Jenner,” Lavian noted.
Next month, Dermelect
Cosmeceuticals will roll out two products on its website, www.dermelect.
com that do more than color lips. Both
the 4-in-1 Smooth Lip Solution and Smooth + Plump Lipstick
contain ingredients such as keratin peptide and hyaluronic acid,
along with vitamins A, C and E.
“We are making waves and are on a lot of people’s radar,”
Lavian insisted.“When I started the company, I wanted to bring
a no-nonsense approach to skin care. I didn’t want to fleece the
consumer with a $1,000 skin preparation.”
To Your Health!
Obviously, cosmetics should never be confused with pharmaceuticals. But one pharma company is eyeing the OTC topical
treatment space. BioPharmX, based in Menlo Park, CA, recently
introduced a hydrophilic form of minocycline that, company
officials maintain, is more effective than other topical acne
treatments. The product, BPX-01, is billed as the first and only
stable hydrophilic topical gel with fully solubilized minocycline.
Minocycline, an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory medicine,
is the most commonly prescribed acne treatment because it has
a lower resistance rate than other antibiotics. No stable form
of hydrophilic topical minocycline is currently commercially
Anja Krammer, the company’s co-founder and president,
told Happi that BioPharmX is monitoring the direct-to-consum-er category. Prescription acne products are a $3 billion market,
compared to $750 million for OTC products, so it makes sense to
focus initial efforts in the prescription space.
“We are building a direct to consumer business,” she added.
“Benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, we are looking at all of them.”
In fact, Krammer expects BioPharmX to enter the OTC space
Regardless of prohibitive costs or regulations, the active ingredient arena will remain viable for years to come, say industry
“The opportunities for new products and new ingredients
is tremendous; we have not even come close to exhausting this
area,” observed Gupta of Bioderm Research. “During the next 10
years, the segment will double from where it is today.”
That’s great news for aging Millennials, marketers and raw
material suppliers, too. •
Trilipderm got its start when the company’s founder
was trying to solve dry skin. Now the brand is ex-
panding in other categories. The newest is
rehydration night cream.