SILAB AT 30
cosmetics industry,” added Gaillard, who noted the global beauty industry is expected to expand 3. 5 to 4.0% on a worldwide
basis, in the coming years.
A Rich History
Silab has evolved with, and often ahead, of the beauty industry
during the past three decades. The company got its start when
Paufique left his position as director of research for infant nutrition at BSN (Danone today) to found Silab. The company’s
first product was an animal vaccine. Later, Silab began producing animal-derived cosmetics ingredients. But when bovine
spongiform encephalopathy took its toll on the market in 1991,
Paufique, an agonomic engineer and microbiologist who studied at the prestigious Institut Pasteur, quickly moved the company to vegetable-based products.
“We were the first to propose that products based on natural, vegetal materials could have the same efficacy as animal-derived ingredients,”recalled Paufique.
During his long career, the Silab founder has witnessed dramatic changes in the cosmetics industry.
“When I started in 1984 the industry was telling nice marketing stories, but was not concerned about the efficacy of the
active,” he told Happi. “At that time, the industry made collagen
creams derived from veal and veal skin with no link to human
skin. Today, our products aren’t adding collagen—we are boosting collagen production in human skin! We are making better
products. There is no doubt about that!
That first cosmetic ingredient, called Tensine, was a wheat
derivative designed to replace albumin. Tensine is still available. The latest tensor from Silab is Instensyl, a cassava glucan
biopolymer that provides immediate smoothing anti-wrinkle
properties. Silab maintains that Instensyl improves skin mi-crorelief by more than 60% of volunteers just 30 minutes after
Another new product is Epigenomyl, a material rich in calendula flower oligosaccharides that is said to smooth the skin’s mi-crorelief, reduce wrinkles and increase skin tone. In fact, when
incorporated into emulsions at 3%, Epigenomyl improved the
perceived age of volunteers. More specifically, the average perceived age of volunteers was three years younger than before
treatment with Epigenomyl, according to the company.
Most recently, Silab has entered an entirely new field with
the dedication of a new production unit that makes new biological raw materials derived from biotechnology such as yeast
and supplies the production lines of Silab manufacturing natural actives. A notable product is Celldetox, a purified alpha-glu-can active that is said to detoxify cells by removing altered cell
components such as oxidized proteins and peroxidized lipids
(autophagy process). The material guarantees cell and tissue
longevity and blocks the accumulation of lipofuscin aggregates,
according to Silab. The end result is that after 14 days of use,
facial features are smoothed and skin radiance is revived. After
28 days, lines are visibly smoothed and tone is evened.
Another product is Unflamagyl, which is rich in yeast
biopeptides to regulate communication between senescent
cells and their environment. In vivo evaluations found that
Unflamagyl significantly improved the appearance of the dermal matrix and reduced wrinkles by decreasing the parameter
of negative volume. Nearly 90% of test subjects perceived that
lines and wrinkles were significantly less visible and their skin
Gaillard said Silab will continue to roll out biotech-derived
materials for several important reasons.
“Biotech products are reproducible and are not reliant on
external issues such as weather and crop yield,” he observed.
“This gives us many new opportunities to create new applications with stronger efficacy in niche markets.”
The new biotechnology unit covers 400m2. A third of the Silab staff is devoted to research and development.