NYSCC SOARS TO
A NEW LEVEL OF EDUCATION WAS REACHED BY THE NEW YORK CHAPTER OF THE SOCIETY OF
COSMETIC CHEMISTS IN JUNE WHEN CHEMISTS GATHERED ON THE 40TH FLOOR OF BUILDING 7
AT THE WORLD TRADE CENTER COMPLEX IN NEW YORK CITY TO LEARN ABOUT ANTIOXIDANTS.
WITH LESS than two months to go before the event, Antioxidant Symposium chairman Roger McMullen was concerned that only a handful of chemists had
registered for the event—he needn’t have worried. By the time
the Symposium took place on the 40th floor of Building 7 at the
World Trade Center complex in New York City on June 5, there
were more than 200 attendees and some would-be registrants
had to be turned away.
“Throughout the day, the auditorium was at full capacity,”
noted McMullen of Ashland Specialty Ingredients. “There was
not an empty seat in the house, not even during the closing re-
marks of the symposium. Overall, the day was a great success.”
Attendees were drawn to the excellent program that included
more than a dozen presentations by leading authorities in and
outside the industry, along a poster session, which awarded
two first place prizes of $1,500 to Dr. Diana Change of Rutgers
University and Drs. Ed Pelle and Qi Zhang of Estée Lauder
Companies. Two second place prizes of $1,000 were awarded to
Dr. Jean-Marie Botto of Ashland Specialty Ingredients and Julian
Silverman of City College of New York, CUNY.
The event was even attended by the IFSCC Praesidium,
which is the governing body of the International Federation of
Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC). The Praesidium meets
twice a year to discuss important IFSCC issues. This year the or-
ganization elected to hold its spring meeting in New York City in
conjunction with the NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium.
McMullen served double-duty; he was chairman as well as
the first speaker of the symposium, during which he discussed
antioxidants and the skin. He reviewed antioxidants with proven
efficacy as skin treatments, including L-ascorbic acid, polyphenols and silymarin, and he explained how to measure antioxidant efficacy using such techniques as electron spin resonance,
in-vitro assays, in-vitro cell cultures and tissue studies, ex vivo
experiments and in vivo experiments.
Questions that must be answered prior to developing formulas with antioxidants include:
• Is the antioxidant present to preserve the formulation or is
the antioxidant intended to be bioavailable to the skin?
• Do we understand the penetration characteristics of the antioxidant? To which layer will it be delivered?
• Will the antioxidant remain stable over the shelf life of the
• Is there an intended target for the antioxidant; i.e., is it a free
radical scavenger? Will it target a specific reactive oxygen species
Another formulation consideration is the polar paradox;
e.g., polar antioxidants are more efficacious in bulk oil systems
(because they migrate to the interphase); while nonpolar antioxidants are more effective in systems with a substantial aqueous
But regardless of formulation issues, antioxidants are here to
stay in products.
“A lot more of products, such as sun care, moisturizers
Tom Branna • Editorial Director
Symposium chairman Roger McMullen put together an impressive program.