According to Jeni Thomas, Ph.D., principal scientist, P&G
Beauty & Grooming, silicones entered hair care during the 1970s
and, since the 1990s, the number of patents linked to the use of
silicones in cosmetics has increased 100-fold, expanding exponentially the options within this high-performing type of ingredient.
“Polymer research has introduced many new ingredients to
hair care over the last few decades, including naturally-derived
conditioning polymers such as cassia in Pantene’s Nature Fusion,
to polymers that work on the altered structure of color-treated
hair (polyDADMAC in Pantene liquid crystals), and polymers
that give shampoos more consistent cleaning performance across
a range of water hardness (methocel),” noted Thomas.
The 1980s saw the invention of 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner technology, enabling a new approach to conditioning and
adding extra protection when hair is in its weakest state (wet),
according to Thomas.
“Other ingredients, like lauryl/laureth sulfate, fatty alcohols
and panthenol, have stood the test of time and continue to be
used today for the important roles they play in shampoos and
conditioners,” she concluded.
Today, some brands are billed as being surfactant-free, but
even they contain cetyl and cetearyl alcohol as well as behentrimonium methosulfate and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
During the past 50 years, the number of brands and SKUs has exploded on mass market shelves, as consumers search for just the right
formula to match their hair type.
“Hair care has evolved in the last 50 years where we now have
specific products designed for specific hair needs,”explained Rubin.
For instance, Suave Professionals launched the Keratin Infusion
line in 2012 to help women who are looking to control frizz. Earlier
this year, Suave Professionals launched the new Moroccan Infusion
line for women looking for brilliant shine. The Suave Professionals
portfolio includes a plethora of products to meet the hair care needs of
women including curly hair, fine hair and color-treated hair.
At the professional level, the goal is to “dare to inspire” hairdressers and all who encounter Sebastian, explained Alexis Dujan,
manager, Prestige Beauty. “The word ‘dare’ challenges the Sebastian
team to take risks to develop the most innovative and creative concepts for the professional salon industry. This vision has set the stage
for all that we’ve done, continue to do and will do in the future. “
From household cleaning product formulators to color cosmetics
manufacturers, everyone, it seems, is obsessed with saving water and
rightfully so. Worldwide, agriculture accounts for 70% of all water consumption, compared to 20% for industry and 10% for domestic use.
How much goes toward washing hair? No one’s saying, but demand
for dry shampoos could change all that. According to a new study by
Mintel, in 2008, dry shampoo introductions accounted for just 1% of
global shampoo launch activity but by 2012 the segment captured 3%
of category NPD and 2013 is on track to surpass 2012 levels.
Dry shampoo appeals to consumers who to use it between regular
hair washing, as the dry option prevents the need to restyle the hair.
Mintel notes that 16% of US adults report some usage of a dry shampoo in the last year. Across the UK, Spain, France, Germany and Italy,
usage is relatively similar to that of the US, but peaks in the UK, where
nearly a quarter (23%) of women are engaged in the segment.
When it comes to dry shampoo, the need for speed is evident.
The time/speed claim has been present in 53% of dry shampoos
launched since 2009, making it not only the most frequently used
claim in the segment, but also one of the fastest growing, according to Mintel’s GNPD.
Products without water? Are these trends just midlife crises,
or is the multibillion shampoo and conditioner category trans-
forming before our very eyes?•
UNIlEvER AND P&G TOP THE US