From its new headquarters in Philadelphia, EMD Chemicals works closely with its
customers to create unique personal care products.
Tom Branna • Editorial Director
WITH A LINEUP of novel cosmetic ingredients in place, a deep roster of talented chemists at the helm and a knack for creating successful products from concepts
to commercialization, EMD Chemicals is well positioned for another successful year. EMD Chemicals is the North American
trade name for the performance materials division of Merck
KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany. During 2012, the company moved
into a new facility in Philadelphia that is LEED Gold-certified
and an ideal conduit to help EMD Chemicals’ beauty customers take their concepts from the laboratory all the way to store
shelves, according to company executives.
“We’ve streamlined our communication with customers
with a go-to-market approach,” explained Qinyun Peng, head
of technology application network, pigments and actives, EMD
Chemicals.“And we’re committed to helping them create innova-
tive products based on novel technologies.”
For example, customers were looking for a jet-black pearles-
cent pigment; EMD Chemicals created Ronastar Diamond Black,
which fills the gap in the market and fulfills customers’ wishes.
Ronastar Diamond Black cosmetic pigment is based on
evenly-shaped aluminum oxide with a particle size of 5-30μm
and a sophisticated coating process with silica and iron oxide.
The composition features ideal light reflection without light scattering centers. According to EMD Chemicals, the dark, glossy
pigment adds a dis-
tinctive, rich and
glamorous luster to
eyeshadows and nail
polishes. It has a very
pleasant skin feel and
excellent pay-off in
pressed powders and,
“We get a lot of cross-knowledge from other groups within
the company,” explained Rebecca Vaiarelli, associate manager,
decorative marketing, EMD Chemicals. “Our customers want
ideas from other areas and we participate in a wide variety of
Another new cosmetic pigment, Colorona Imperial Citrine,
is an intense yellow matte pigment that provides both natural
coverage and superior skin adhesion. Colorona Imperial Citrine
contains mica, bismuth oxychloride and iron oxides, with a par-
ticle size ranging from 2-50μm (80% in range).
Generally, EMD Chemicals launches more than 10 cosmetic
pigments and functional fillers each year.
EMD Chemicals’ new headquarters in Philadelphia.
More than Color
EMD Chemicals may be best known for its pigments (its semiannual color trend reports are closely followed by beauty marketers around the world), but in recent years, EMD Chemicals
has expanded its cosmetic actives portfolio which includes a wide
variety of products, such as anti-aging and anti-inflammation
ingredients, UV filters and photostablizers, antioxidants, DHA,
IR3535 insect repellents and bioflavonoid.
“We develop multifunctional formulas that contain pigments
and/or functional fillers and actives,” explained Peng.“Usually, it
takes some time to see the visual effect resulted from the actives,
but immediate improvement of appearance can be achieved with
the functional fillers in the meantime.”