Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner
They mimic the natural materials found
in our cells and are injected into skin
folds, and deep wrinkles to lift and
reshape the face. They are the most
popular cosmetic procedures because
they produce natural looking results.
They are reasonable in cost ($450-600
per syringe), efficient and are instantly
In fact, injections are the fast-est growing non-surgical aesthetic
Patients see the results immediately after just one injection treatment.
The effects are temporary but they can
last up to six months. Side effects are
rare, but they include redness, swelling
and bruising. Fillers help skin regenerate natural collagen. It is important to
maintain a strong moisture barrier in
the top layer of the skin.
There are many different types of fillers
and each one has different benefits, usage
parameters and duration of effectiveness.
In order to develop a gel-like viscosity
that could possess an increased residence
time, HA is cross-linked. Untreated HA
is rapidly broken down by hyaluronidase
enzyme. Its half-life is no longer than one
day. The most popular cross-linking agent
is 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether. This
process results in HA gels of different viscosity grades.
Commercial dermatological prepa-
Fillers: These are typically HA de-
rived from rooster combs. Another
available grade is Hylaform Plus, called
Captique. It is similar to Hylaform ex-
cept it is derived from bacteria. This
product has been withdrawn from US
market. Restylane is a hyaluronic acid
product that is also derived from bacte-
ria. Juvederm, both ultra and ultra plus
grades, are non-animal derived der-
mal fillers consisting of a smooth gel.
The ultra plus grade is stronger, giving
dermatologists the ability to better treat
deeper folds and wrinkles. It also lasts
a little longer.
Topicals: HA is important for tissue
Hyaluronic acid has strong water-binding properties,
which makes it a key ingredient in wrinkle-fighting treatments.
repair and maintaining skin hydration.
3 HA binds water up to 500 times
its weight. Hyaluronic acid does not
penetrate the skin because of its large
4 HA, and its derivative
sodium HA, are used in cosmetic formulations for their strong water-binding capabilities. It brings moisture up
to the top layer of the skin and keeps
skin hydrated. When it is formulated
in creams and serums, it provides skin
moisturization lasting for few days.
HA has the ability to pull moisture
from the atmosphere and trap it on the
surface of the skin only, because it can’t
penetrate the stratum corneum and enter the epidermis.
5 It has been shown
that soy isoflavones can increase levels
of GAG and specifically HA in aging
skin, although the exact mechanism is
Hyaluronic acid is responsible for
maintaining skin water balance, provid-
ing hydration, lubrication and cellular
function as well as imparting a cushion
effect between the joints. It provides
a reservoir of water within the skin.
In aging skin marked by dehydration,
sagging, and wrinkles, a remarkable
improvement is demonstrated when
skin’s HA levels are boosted.
The loss of hyaluronic acid in the human body is one of the causes of wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid-injected fillers
make skin look younger and improve
its tone, making it smooth and supple.
Effective active ingredients such as
retinoids, peptides and HA are gaining credibility in high-end anti-aging
preparations. Regular use of skin care
products containing such actives can
undo the damage of time.
However, the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid oral supplementation remains somewhat controversial.•
1. J. Biol. Chem. 107:629-34, 1934
2. Int. J. Derm. 33(2): 119-22, 1944
3. Sudel KM etal - Photochem. Photobiol. 2005;
4. Zettersten EM, etal. J. Am. Derm. 1997;37:403
5. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 113 ( 3) 35-42., 1998