HAPPI ANTI-AGING CONFERENCE
The Day 2 keynote speaker, Dr. Jennifer Linder, M.D., explained
what causes the aging face and how it can be fixed with skin care
products. She noted that collagen and matrix degradation is improved with a formula that contains acetyl hexapeptide- 8 serum,
EGF serum, 15% L-ascorbic acid serum, 1% stabilized retinol, 3%
vigna aconitifolia seed extract serum, palmitoyl pentapeptide- 4
eye cream and shea butter-based evening hydrator and SPF 25.
To treat dyschromias, Linder treated patients with 2% hydroquinone, 3% kojic acid and 5% azelaic acid spot treatment and
Overall, Linder recommended using a formula that contains
broad-spectrum UV protection, matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi), antioxidants, retinoids, ascorbic acid and peptides to
improve collagen and matrix protection and production.
More specifically, ingredients that prevent the formation of
the enzymes that break down the extra cellular matrix include
retinoids, vitamin E, aloe vera, soy isoflavones, resveratrol, beta-carotene, epigallocatechin gallage (EGCG) and ascorbic acid. To
improve texture, she recommended retinoids and alpha hydroxy
acids; to improve hydration, include humectants and occlusive
agents; and to correct dyschromia, a formulation should contain
melanogenesis inhibitors, retinoids, L-ascorbic acid, vasoconstrictors and anti-inflammatory agents.
Treating Ethnic Skin
Dr. Andrew Alexis, M.D. expanded on the treatment of dyschromia
in a presentation that focused on the unique needs of ethnic skin.
For example, he said that East Asians’ skin aging concerns include
solar lentigines, facial seborrheic keratoses, melasma and fine lines
and wrinkles. Similarly, South Asians’ skin care problems include
mottled hyperpigmentation, melasma, fine lines and wrinkles. The
Hispanic population has a higher incidence of melasma, fine lines
and wrinkles and volume loss, while African-Americans suffer
from enlarged pores, and mid- and lower-face volume loss.
Carrie Mellage of
Kline and Company
driving the anti-aging
Taking a closer look at African-American skin maladies,
Alexis told the audience that reactive fibroblasts in skin leads to
an increase in the prevalence of keloids and he pointed out that
fibroblasts in black skin tend to be larger and are often multinucleated than those found in white skin.
Alexis noted that the growing ethnic population in the US,
coupled with the increasing reliance on cosmetic procedures in this
country, could lead to an uptick in the number of dyschromia cases.
Other speakers and topics included: Elizabeth Nach,
Federal Trade Commission, “Clarifying Rules for Advertising
Claims;” James H. Hartten, Arent Fox, “Anti-Aging Market and
Regulatory Trends;” May Shana’a, Ashland Specialty Ingredients,
“Formulating Effective Cosmeceuticals” and Jim Larkey, Canfield
Scientific, “Advances in Skin Imaging Applications: From
Research to Retail,” The conference concluded with a panel discussion regarding advertising claims. Panelists included David
Zetoony, Bryan Cave; Gail Vance Civille, Sensory Spectrum; and
Karen Young, The Young Group.
The 2013 HAPPI Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition
will be held Oct. 29-30 at the Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick, NJ.
More info: Tom Branna, 201.880.2223; email@example.com •
Attendees and exhibitors mixed on the crowded exhibit floor.