research conducted by Dr. Andrea Vierkotter of Heinrich Heine University,
University of Dusseldorf. At the same university, another professor of dermatology, Dr. Krutmann, similarly found that traffic soot activates the aryl
hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) expressed on keratinocytes and melanocytes.
This results in an increased metalloproteinase-1 activity, which, in turn,
leads to degradation of collagen in the dermal matrix and thereby to formation of wrinkles. This AhR activation also stimulates melanocyte proliferation that could explain the increased formation of pigmented spots (J. Invest.
Derm. 2011:131:203-10). A raw material company that could develop a raw
material with AhR antagonist potential and be suitable for topical use, could
become very useful in proactively addressing skin aging due to pollution.
Sirtuins: Scientists have challenged anti-aging effects of sirtuins. EU-funded scientists insist they have debunked assumptions that by promoting
production of the protein sirtuin, anti-aging creams can keep skin looking
young, fresh and wrinkle-free. Personal care product companies have claimed
that sirtuin is activated by the plant-based drug resveratrol. But its effect has
been disputed by research funded from the EU’s Proteomage and lifespan
projects. Scientists examined the nematode worm, because previous tests
had shown longer lived specimens had higher levels of sirtuin. But this time,
they took into account all other potential differences between the worms and
found that those with an artificially raised production of sirtuin lived no longer than control standard worms. The University of London’s Dr. David Gems
told a European Commission briefing note: “Sirtuins, far from being a key to
longevity, appear to have nothing to do with extending life.” He added that
this was good news, because researchers could now look for a real way to
control aging. 4
Telomeres: The tips of 46 chromosomes are thread-like bodies in the nucleus of cells that carry our genes. As cells replicate, the telomeres, like the
plastic coating on the ends of shoelaces, wear down. The enzyme telomer-ase is a savior and provides dabs of DNA, otherwise the cells would stop
replicating and die. But this enzyme production slows with aging, telomeres
shorten, genetic material is damaged and cellular aging occurs. Telometrics
Corporation5 recommends that consumers drink one $600 vial of its Vital- 25
Anti-aging Formula, dietary supplement twice a year for a“full-body reset”
at the cellular level. Within days of initial ingestion, patches of dry skin, sun-damaged skin and large pores begin to diminish. It is said that the supplement is a mixture of glandular enzymes and peptide extracts.
These and other anti-aging technologies give cosmetic companies, both
small and large, a competitive advantage and enable them to differentiate
their products in a meaningful way. These also help consumers, because they
are seeking cosmetic products that solve specific problem areas such as puffy
eyes, rosacea, stretch marks and cellulite. •
1. Euromonitor International Article 09 Jan.2012.
2. P. Gillette, Modern Medicine , May 2, 2012 , J. In. Derm.
3. K.Bird, 16 June 2009, Archives of Dermatology
4. World News SPC November 2011
5. R. Nelson, R. Sheet 9/12/2011