Gleams & Notions
NOVEL IDEAS FILL THE AISLES
DURING SUPPLIERS’ DAY
THERE WERE more than 360 exhibi- tors and thousands of attendees at the 2012 NYSCC Suppliers’
Day, held May 15 and 16 in Edison, NJ.
To save time and bypass the long lines
at the registration booth, it was advisable to preregister for the event online.
Among the exhibitors was
Centerchem, Norwalk, CT promoting a
new product called Citrustem. Derived
from orange stem cells, which are undifferentiated cells that can regenerate the whole plant, it is claimed that
Citrustem “organizes and redensifies
the dermis structure, restores the extracellular network improving cells’ adhesion, and recovers the quality of young
skin.”Just 0.3% Citrustem increased the
production of TGK (an essential enzyme for the epidermis) by 700%, and
increased the fibroblast proliferation by
23% more than the control. Also, 3%
Citrustem increased the desquamation
regulation by 17.5%—this makes the
stratum corneum more cohesive, with
fewer scales, which creates a smoother
skin. Tests also showed that this same
3% Citrustem increased the skin’s bio-elasticity by 10.15%. Citrustem is a
Harvey M. Fishman
Harvey Fishman has a consulting
firm in Wanaque, NJ, specializing in cosmetic formula-
tions and new product ideas, offering tested finished
products. He has more than 30 years of experience and
has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur
and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from
suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.
viscous white to pale yellow liquid in
which the recommended use level is
Below is a suggested skin care product formula.
Ageless Restructuring Serum
Water 69. 12
10% Citric acid 0.15
Pentylene glycol 2.50
Oleyl erucate 1.00
Dimethicone, polysilicone- 11 2.00
Oleth- 20 3.00
Bentonite, xanthan gum 1.00
Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.3
Jojoba seed oil
Glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl
10% sodium hydroxide
Grant Industries, Elmwood Park, NJ,
showcased Gransil EP- 9 (INCI name:
Polysilicone- 11 (and) water (and)
laureth- 12 (and) phenoxyethanol (and)
ethylhexylglycerin). The Polysilicone- 11
is present at 60% to provide an intensified blurring property to skin lines
and wrinkles, in addition to its sensory
feel which is non-tacky, non-oily, and
leaves a powdery after feel.
Gransil EP- 9 is also said to absorb
sebum to control excess oils on the skin.
It is non-irritating, non-sensitizing and
approved for global use. The recommended use for instant results is 25-
45%, and 5-10% for adding additional
sensory properties. It can be used in
O/W or W/O emulsions or dispersions.
During Suppliers’ Day, Chemsil
Silicones, Chatsworth, CA,
promoted Microsil Volume (INCI
name: Propoxytetramethyl piperdi-nyl dimethicone (and) cetrimoni-um chloride (and) trideceth- 6 (and)
C11-C15 Pareth- 7). It is a clear, cationic, aqueous silicone microemulsion.
According to Chemsil, in laboratory tests, Microsil Volume increased
hair volume by 23%, and improved
anti-static control and softness, and
enhanced hair shine. It is water dispersible, has 25% solids, and a pH of
It is recommended for use in hair conditioners as the formula below illustrates.
Full Body Conditioner
Behentrimonium methosulfate 4. 50
(and) cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate (and)
PEG - 100 stearate
DMDM hydantoin 0.35
(and) idopropynyl butylcarbamate
Procedure: Heat Part A in batch tank to
85°C with high speed mixing.
Add Part B in indicated order and
mix for 30 minutes. Cool to 40°C, add
Part C and mix for 10 minutes. This is a
white emulsion with a pH of 4. 3, and a
viscosity of 11,200cs.
Of course, this is just a sample
of what chemists could find on the
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day exhibition floor.
For those who plan early, NYSCC
Suppliers’ Day 2013 will be held May