Green ingredients still rule the roost with skin care
consumers. And leading skin care formulators are
looking to specific situations where botanicals—
the largest specialty actives category, according to
Kline & Company’s recent data—can have the
Avon’s Anew Genics Treatment Cream features
YouthGen technology, which the direct seller says
is a unique blend of molecules and extracts including Avon’s patented melicope hayesii leaf extract and patent-pending mesyloxy BSA—both
first-to-market technology. The cream is formulated to stimulate youth gene activity and increase
the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, according to Avon.
At Vichy, the focus is on the function of the
papillary dermis, or derm source. Located immediately below the epidermis, this vital layer is
responsible for driving skin rejuvenation
processes, including collagen and elastin production. Over time, Vichy says derm source function deteriorates,
leading to visible signs of aging such as wrinkles, sagging and a
loss of firmness.
To counteract that, the firm has turned to Rhamnose, a natu-
rally-derived plant extract that has been proven to stimulate derm
source activity. Vichy LiftActiv with Rhamnose 5% is proven to re-
duce the appearance of the most common facial wrinkles—fore-
head, crow's-feet, under-eye, and between the eyebrows—starting
in just two weeks. Overall skin tone and texture also begin to im-
prove after just four days of use, the company said
Stiefel is touting Revaléskin Illuminesse Brightening Complex,
which relies on coffeeberry whole fruit extract. According to clin-
ical studies, coffeeberry helps replenish the skin’s lost natural an-
tioxidants and neutralizes free radicals that can accelerate the
HydroPeptide Even Out Brightening
Pigment Corrector features Chromabright, a new brightening active that
safely inhibits tyrosinase activity, and
which reduces the microphthalmia-associate
transcription factor (MITF) pathway to regulate
the actions that cause pigmentation, and inhibits
tyrosinase and melanin production.
Even Out is the only pigment corrector on
the market that contains this exclusive patented
peptide, asserted company officials.
The formulation also relies on licorice, a natural plant-derived skin lightener which also has
tyrosinase-inhibiting properties; lactic acid for
skin renewal benefits; and allantoin, which is
derived from the comfrey plant and stimulates
growth of healthy tissue and promotes exfoliation of layers of darkened skin.
At Dermalogica, the AGE Smart Overnight
Repair Serum is formulated with palmitoyl tripep-tide- 38 and alaria extract to help increase collagen
renewal, hydration, firmness and dermal strength.
The serum also features argan oil, vitamin E and
essential fatty acids help restore a weakened barrier layer, lock in moisture and increase elasticity,
as well as rose hip seed oil to help minimize discoloration and boost cell renewal.
Clinique has incorporated collagen-boosting
peptides in its Lid Smoothie Antioxidant 8-Hour
Colour shadows, which rolled out in August.
Said to smooth skin texture as its leaves a soft,
powdery finish with some shimmer, this lightweight shadow—which is available in 12 colors—also features an antioxidant-rich blend of
extracts like vitamin E, broccoli, carrot, blueberry
and spinach, plus cucumber, aloe vera and caffeine. In addition, a metallized tip helps deliver
a cool, refreshing feel with each application, according to the Estée Lauder brand.
Over at Jan Marini Skin Research, the R&D
team has formulated Retinol Plus and Retinol
Plus MD, billed as“retinoid-antioxidant peptide
complex solutions.” The latter has 1.0% retinol and is available
through the physician retail marketplace, while Retinol Plus has
a 0.5% concentration, and is available to licensed skin care professionals and physicians.
They both are said to offer significant advantages beyond just
those of high-concentration retinoid, according to the San Jose-CA-based brand. The integrated peptides, antioxidants, hydrators
and soothing agents enhance clinical benefits while simultaneously reducing the acclimation and sensitivity historically associated with high concentration retinoids.
But peptides aren’t just for skin care; EnvyDerm has tapped
the technology for eyelashes. EnvyDerm Growth Mascara and
Growth Liquid Eyeliner both feature Hydroplant specialized
peptide combined with hydrolyzed keratin which stimulate ker-
atin production in the lash line to repair damage
and promote new lashes.