uses imaging quantification in its in-vivo
laboratory to highlight the cosmetic efficacy
of its natural active ingredients.
A Look at Hair
SCC vice president Joe Dallal of International Specialty Products moderated a session devoted to hair. According to Trevor
Evans of TRI-Princeton, large molecules
such as surfactants, polymers and oils dominate hair care chemistry.
“But water is a small molecule and affects hair more than anything I know,” he
told the audience before launching into his
presentation on how chemists can manipulate the bulk properties of hair by utilizing
small molecules such as glycerol, glycolic
acid and lactic acid.
Heat damages hair, too, and that damage increases significantly when temperatures rise above 160°F. Manuel Gamez-Garcia of BASF explained how the physical
and chemical processes responsible for hair
straightening and hair damage depend on
the temperature profile across the hair
fibers. He explained that some polymers
improve heat transfer, noting that if higher
levels of heat transfer occur the result will
be more damage to hair.
Gina Cosby presents Brian Czetty with the SCC
Award sponsored by Rhodia.
Michael Philbin, AkzoNobel Surface
Chemistry, explained how polymer compositions made by polymerizing vinyl pyrroli-done in the presence of maltodextrin
delivered similar performance in a hair gel
to PVP with a K value of 30. It indicates that
a performance equivalent to commonly
used synthetic polymers can be achieved
from a polymer having a natural component of more than 50% of its composition.
Carole Lepilleur, Lubrizol Advanced
Materials, explained how cationic cassia
polymers can enhance deposition. In the
Lubrizol tests, cationic cassia polymers (at
1.5%) deposit silicone much more effi-
ciently than cationic guar or PQ- 10. As a
result, formulators can use less silicone and
cationic polymer than formulations based
on the benchmarks to achieve at least com-
parable if not better conditioning perform-
ance (For a detailed look at this chemistry, see
p. 84, HAPPI, December 2010).
Friday’s sessions got underway with presentations devoted to the role of genomics
in personal care chemistry. Philip Ludwig
of Arch Personal Care explained how
human genomic microassays can identify
effective ingredients for personal care.
These microassays give cosmetic chemists
new opportunities to examine the influence
of skin ingredients on skin cells in ways
that were not previously possible. In the
Arch study, researchers reviewed more than
200 genes related to skin function in order
to examine the influence of skin lighteners
“Human microassays can help guide
your research,”he told the audience.“Gene
THE STUDENT POSTER SHOWCASE is held annually to promote student research in the cosmetic industry.
This year there were 12 posters presented highlighting
each individual student's ideas and research. Schools
represented included Fairleigh Dickinson University,
Long Island University, Jones County Junior College,
University of Cincinnati, University of Southern Mississippi and the University of Toronto. The Poster Awards
for the top four posters are sponsored by DD Chemco.
Members of the Committee on Scientific Affairs
judged the posters and the award for First Place went to
Vipul Padman, University of Southern Mississippi for his
poster entitled “The Effect of Polymer Backbone Rigidity
and Hydrophilicity on Polymer-Surfactant Interaction and
Phase Behavior.” Second Place was awarded to Jennifer Karr, University
of Cincinnati, for her poster entitled “Modification of Skin Absorption while
Maintaining Effective Evaporation Rates for N,N-diethyl-3-
methylbenzamide (DEET) using a Novel Encapsulation Method.”
Third Place was awarded to Kathleen Davis, University of Southern
Mississippi for her poster entitled “Effects of Carbomer on the Phase Be-
Southern Mississippi Student Earns Top Poster Award at Scientific Seminar
Participants in the Student Poster Session.
havior of Oil/Water/Poloxamer 184 Systems.”
Fourth Place was awarded to Rania Ibrahim, University of Cincinnati
for her poster entitled “Dermal Clearance Model for Epidermal Bioavail-