Today’s power actives truly run the
gamut, according to Raymond Sourial, sales
director, Centerchem, Inc., Norwalk, CT.
“There was a point when peptides were
all the rage. Then, natural ingredients
gained the spotlight. Now, customers may
shade one way or another, but generally
they ask for ingredients that work,” he told
HAPPI.“I can’t tell you how many times I’ve
been told that the customer wants natural
ingredients. Then, they follow it up with a
statement like, ‘but if you have something
synthetic or biotech that really works, we
can make it fit.’”
So, what are the future trends in active ingredients for 2012 and beyond? Sources concur that novel components lead the way in
terms of better products with better results.
“Skin care products will continue to go
from the cosmeceutical to the‘cosmolecu-lar.’ This is a term that describes the trend
in skin care toward molecular mechanisms
and looking inside the cell as opposed to
outside of the skin,” said Graf.
Natural ingredient technologies and
green environmentally friendly skin care
will continue to flourish and the science of
their molecular mechanisms will continue
to be defined, she added.
The rise is the advancement of natural
actives is indeed on the rise, agreed Lippay
of DSM Personal Care.
“More naturals will be developed and
refined with stronger supporting in-vitro
and in-vivo studies,” he said.
Thiel Glaser of Glenn Corporation told
HAPPI that there will be more targeted functionality with the use of microarrays in actives. Additionally, the debate on “drug
versus cosmetic” will continue, she said.
According to Sadick, detoxifying
agents, which protect against free radical
damage and protein denaturation in
cells—as well as stem cell modulators, to
stimulate reproduction as well as to keep
cells alive for a longer period of time—are
key to the progression of active ingredients. Products with improved protection
functions during the day, as well as the
combination use of active plus at-home
technologies for treatment of acne, pho-toaging, skin tightening and hair removal
will also be big in 2012, he said.
“Active ingredients have a bright future.
The pace of the growth of knowledge and
innovation will allow more areas to be explored,” agreed Sourial of Centerchem.“In
order to predict where the future for active
ingredients lies, one simply needs to look
at recent scientific and medical discoveries.
In the same way that changes in surgical
procedures, nutrition and protection have
already altered the active ingredient landscape, I am sure that we are in store for
more such developments.”