Gleams & Notions
SODIUM LAURYL sulfate and sodium lau- reth sulfate are the most commonly used surfactants when formulating
hair shampoos due to their excellent foaming ability and the ease of viscosity adjustment. However, when formulating a body
wash or body shampoo, a milder or less irritating surfactant is preferred. Sodium lauroyl
or cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is frequently used
as a replacement.
Innospec Active Chemicals, Edison, NJ,
has a product called Iselux LQ-CLR-SB
(INCI name: Sodium lauroyl methyl
isethionate), which is made by adding a
methyl group to SCI. Apparently, this
minor modification makes a dramatic difference in properties. It exhibits excellent
water solubility so it can be used in clear
systems; it furnishes a dense, creamy long
lasting lather and smooth after feel; it is
very mild so it can be used on sensitive
skin; it is free of sulfates, 1,4-dioxane and
nitrosamines; it is readily biodegradable
and derived from natural feedstocks; and
is easily formulated with broad pH stability (from pH 4. 5 – 8. 5).
In addition to its use in bath or shower
products, it is also recommended in beauty
When formulating a body
shampoo or body wash,
it is important to use a
very mild surfactant.
bars, hand or facial
baby cleansing applications.
Disodium cocoamphodipropionate 7. 5
(Miranol C2M Conc)
Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate 7. 5
Cyamopsis tetragonoloba guar gum 0.5
Iselux LQ-CLR-SB 30.0
Cocamide MEA 3. 5
Cocamidopropyl betaine 10.0
Canola oil 10.0
C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.0
Preservative, dye, perfume q.s.
50% Citric acid solution q.s. to pH 5.0-5.6
Harvey Fishman has a consulting
firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive,
Oakland, NJ 07436, firstname.lastname@example.org, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas,
offering tested finished products. He has more than 30
years of experience and has been director of research
at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes
descriptive literature from suppliers and bench
chemists and others in the field.
Harvey M. Fishman
Iselux is also said to
form structured liquid systems. If used
in combination with
certain co-surfactants, Iselux will promote the formation of
a liquid crystalline structure that can suspend and deliver active ingredients or other
components such as oils and conditioning
agents. The lathering properties of Iselux
are not affected by these ingredients. It is
possible to create visual effects such as layering different colored phases to form
stripes or suspending beads, glitter or other
solid particles. Among the oils and conditioners that can be incorporated are silicones, petrolatum and emollient esters.
When formulating with Iselux flakes, a
sufficient amount of chelating agent should
be used to ensure a clear solution (0.3% active chelate for every 10% active Iselux).
Using a co-surfactant, such as sodium alkyl-amphoacetate or disodium alkylamphodi-acetate, will reduce or eliminate the need for
chelating agents. Electrolytes such as
sodium chloride can be added to increase
the viscosity of the product.
The following formulation is given as an
illustration of the use of Iselux.
q.s. to 100%
PROCEDURE: Mix constantly. Dissolve
the salt in the deionized water, and slowly
blend the third ingredient until dispersed
and uniform. Add Miranol and heat to 40-
45°C. Add the cocoyl taurate.
In a separate vessel, add glycerin and
the guar gum and blend into a uniform,
soft slurry. Add this to main tank. Add
Iselux and cocamide MEA. Remove heat
source and add betaine. In a separate container, mix canola oil and C12-15 alkyl
benzoate and add to main tank. Add desired preservative, dye or perfume. Adjust
pH to 5.0-5.6 with the citric acid. Lowering the pH should thicken the system.
Mix for 30 minutes to reach final consistency. •