SAVING FACE IN EUROPE
WITH NEW SKIN CARE
THE FACIAL SKIN CARE MARKET in the Big 5 has had a fairly static year with no real notable gains or losses for the
most part. France, Germany and Italy all
recorded declines, while Spain posted a
slight growth overall. The UK, on the other
hand, made a solid value gain of 4.5%,
showing some promise in an otherwise uneventful year.
According to data from SymphonyIRI
France, the total facial skin care mass market there was worth $363.4 million in 2010,
a decline of 1.3%. Volume, however, fared
slightly better, inching up 1.2% to 36. 58
million. The normally popular category of
moisturizers fell by 1.3% while the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging skin care category
had a value gain of 3.5%.
However, despite these declines, there
has been some launch activity in France
worthy of note.
Niche French brand Pomarium had a
successful year with its Esprit de Pomme
line, in particular, its star product Serum
Elixir Concentré, which uses apple
polyphenols for their antioxidant and anti-wrinkle action. The product actually won a
Victoires de la Beauté award for 2010-2011,
judged by a panel of 4,400 consumers,
while the brand scooped two prizes in
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New skin care SKUs are making waves in stores.
Beyond Beauty’s Challenger Awards, held
in Paris recently.
Meanwhile, serums are among the
hottest products in French anti-aging
ranges, as they are lightweight yet packed
with highly active ingredients. Lancaster’s
latest serum, Cellular Elixir Intense, is
claimed to have a direct repair action on the
main DNA damage caused by UV rays, pollution and stress. The formula features a li-posome containing four enzymes that are
said to act directly on DNA, resulting in
smoother, firmer, regenerated skin.
Sales weren’t so solid in Germany, as the
market there fell 1.3% to $791 million last
year, according to the latest data from SymphonyIRI Germany. Volume wise, things
were even worse as volume fell 3.3% to
10. 11 million liters. In Germany, facial
creams accounted for 72.4% of the market
in value terms, compared to 27.6% for facial
cleansers. However, when it came to vol-
ume, the story was somewhat different. Facial cleansers ruled the roost here, dominating the category with a 64.2% market share
compared with 35.8% for facial creams.
In terms of new products, natural was
still big business in skin care, as Weleda
launched its new Pomegranate Firming
Day Cream and Pomegranate Firming
Night Cream, both of which utilize the
power of the antioxidant pomegranate to
encourage skin cell renewal. The products
are also said to help combat fine lines and
wrinkles with prolonged use.
Weleda’s organic pomegranate comes
from the fertile valleys of the Icel coastal region in Turkey and makes use of an ethical
fair trade partnership with local growers—
reinforcing its ethical credentials.
Industry body Unipro reported that the
Italian facial skin care market slid 0.3% in
2009, even though its total market worth
stood at a healthy $1.6 billion. However,
the category of cleansing wipes did see a
very healthy growth, putting on 5.6% to
$57 million, while anti-aging creams also
scraped a small gain of 0.9% supplying a
bit of light in an otherwise dull year for
However, the fact that sales of both facial masks and whitening products fell 4%
was a sign that Italian manufacturers might
have something to worry about if this
downward trend continues.
Italian company Santangelica launched an entirely new skin care range based
on its sericin complex, which is said to be
suitable for all age groups. Sericin is a natural glycoprotein, extracted from silk,
which creates a protective film on the
skin. This, in turn, causes a regenerating
action on the skin, which promotes an
anti-wrinkle function, according to the
company. This range has proved popular
with Italian consumers who are big advocates of any ways to look younger.