Improve Hair Conditioning
Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride polymers are naturally derived,
multifunctional polymers for use in conditioning shampoo formulations offering
unique sensory experience, improved deposition and enhanced conditioning.
Duane Krzysik, Carole Lepilleur, Wing Li and Allen Park • Noveon Consumer Specialties • Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
THERE IS AN INCREASE in demand for hair care formulations offering im- proved conditioning. The market
drivers behind this include demographic
changes in age, ethnicity and affluence in
both developed and emerging economies.
Further, there is an increase in the penetration and frequency of use of hair color,
styling products and shampoos. As a result, there is a greater need for products
that maintain the healthy feel and appearance of hair. Formulators face the daunting task of developing hair care products
that not only deliver enhanced conditioning, but also deliver it to a more diverse
range of hair types.
To meet these requirements, formulators need ingredients that can improve the
wet and dry properties of different hair
types. Key improvements desired include
slip, detangling, manageability, volume,
luster, color retention and repair. Formulators typically rely on the use of a wide variety of conditioning ingredients to address
Cassia gum is a natural, vegetable-based carbohydrate based on mannose and
galactose sugars. A member of the galactomannan family of polysaccharides, Cassia
grows wild in tropical zones around the
world, such as India. It has been used for
more than a thousand years in Ayurvedic
and Chinese medicine to treat skin ailments, indigestion and pain, and is used
today as a gelling agent in pet and human
Polysaccharide derivatives have a long
history of use in personal care applications as thickeners, conditioning polymers, deposition aids and film formers.
Cassia derivatives improve a range of hair properties, including slip, manageability and luster.
Cationic derivatives of guar gum, another
galactomannan, have been successfully
used in conditioning shampoos in combination with silicones to impart improved
combing and sensory properties. Compared to other polysaccharide derivatives,
cationic derivatives of cassia gum offer
distinctly different levels of performance
and sensory properties in hair care formulations.
Efficient Conditioning Polymer
Conditioning ingredients are delivered to
hair through a variety of ways including
conditioning shampoos, secondary conditioners and hair treatments. The use of
conditioning shampoos is an attractive
option for many consumers, offering the
convenience of cleansing and conditioning in a single step. The formulation of
such products is challenging given the
complexity of conflicting mechanisms at
work; conditioning shampoos must be
designed to remove and solubilize soil
while simultaneously depositing conditioning ingredients.
While there are several proposed
mechanisms for soil removal during the
shampoo process, many agree that conditioning ingredients are likely deposited
onto hair fibers through a mechanism referred to as coacervation. Coacervation
theory suggests that anionic surfactants
and cationic conditioning polymers can