Household and Personal Products Industry

Lumene Premium Beauty is enhanced with Arctic sea buckthorn nectar.

Growth is mostly driven by the increasing number of women in the U.S., particularly Baby Boomers, who are known to be very interested in health and well-being.

One skin care trend on the rise is the
“nu natural,” according to Nica Lewis, di-
rector of Mintel Beauty Innovation. This
“new vision” of natural is less focused on
certification and more focused on results,
efficiency and safety. Claims such as “free
from”and“sustainable”will appear more in
products that simultaneously contain syn-
thetic actives like peptides, hyaluronic acid,
ceramides or collagen. Beauty manufactur-
ers will further explore simple formulas,
such as infusions and fluids, but they’ll for-
mulate them with a new generation of phy-
tochemicals, anthocyanins and fermented
actives, said Lewis.

Stand and Deliver

Before cosmetic chemists start to formulate a skin care product, they must understand exactly what the product is intended to do; i.e., the end benefit for the consumer, according to Peter Foltis, director of scientific affairs, skin care, L’Oréal USA, Clark, NJ.

“It is equally imperative to know the tar-
get consumer,”he told HAPPI.“The active in-
gredients will impart some consumer
perceived benefit to the skin. This can range
from moisturization, fine lines and wrinkles,
age spots, firming, even skin tone/radiance,
photoprotection, etc. How we accomplish
this depends on what actives we choose.”
Foltis noted the most effective skin care
products contain an optimized mix of sev-
eral active ingredients, preferably acting by
different mechanisms.

Good as Gold: Estée Lauder Expands Re-Nutriv Skin Care Collection

In creating the Re-Nutriv skin care collection in the 1950s, Mrs. Estée Lauder worked in a secret vault and entrusted the complete formula to only one other employee. According to the company, she infused her crème with 26 of the world’s most expensive ingredients and some of science’s most powerful advances and packaged in a golden jar.

“Costly, yes, but how rewarding” was the message communicated in the first print ads for Re-Nutriv in 1958. It is even said to be the first skin care product to use resveratrol with its Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lifting Crème back in 2002.

Now, the skin care brand’s latest incarnation is the new Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Collection. Inspired by epigenetics, Estée Lauder researchers developed something called “Life Re Newing Molecules.” According to the company, this “extraordinary infusion” is the secret behind Re-Nutriv, helping to repair, recharge and restore skin’s energized, radiant appearance. The products also feature black tourmaline, a charged mineral known for its energetic properties.

Black tourmaline, a charged mineral known for its energetic properties, is used in the range.

Leading the way is the new Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Crème ($250, 50ml)—an “all-in-one super crème,” according to Dr. Na-dine Pernodet, Ph.D. executive director of skin biology, research and development, The Estée Lauder Companies.

“It’s is the first Estée Lauder crème to both repair and moisturize skin simultaneously, but it also provides a complete, holistic approach to lifting at every level—cellular, surface and manual,” she said.

Other SKUs include the Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Serum ($200, 30ml) and Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Eye Crème ($100, 50ml). All three feature Phormidium rersicinum, an algae that has survived and thrived for more than three billion years, to support skin’s energy and functioning; EGT, an amino acid and “ supercharged” antioxidant and Laminaria digitata extract.

Also known as silketare, this ingredient is created through a patented process and comes from an incomparable sea plant that can only be harvested for a few months each year. Silketare helps boost SIRT- 3, a “longevity gene” which plays a vital role in skin cell’s mitochondrial function, according to the company.

“We have just begun to unlock the power of sirtuins to help the skin,” said Dr. Dan Yarosh, Ph.D., senior vice president, research and development, basic science research, The Estée Lauder Companies.

“We have discovered connections among the new sirtuins in skin and key cellular functions, like energy and the DNA program, which are very exciting. We expect to continue to lead in the field of epigenetics and bring these new advances to the products we make.”