carefully monitoring our company’s carbon footprint,” said Neu-
dahl. “How much energy does a formulation require? How pro-
ductive are the yields?”
According to Danielle De Wolf, marketing associate at De Wolf
Chemical, Inc., East Providence, RI, fair trade and fair practice pro-
duced and sourced ingredients will continue to become more
popular, “as they have in the food and beverage industries. Not
only is it important to know where and how ingredients in prod-
ucts are sourced, but also, who the laborers are behind the sourc-
ing. Both natural product regulations and labor regulations will
become more stringent and correspondingly important to con-
sumers,” she said.
Having information at the ready can help a firm sort through
the maze of information. For example, Cognis’ customers can utilize its Green Chemical Solutions Guide, which provides specific
data on a wide selection of actives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants and other products, and the Formulation Easy Guide,
which helps them evaluate how green a finished formulation is. In
addition, a Certification Easy Guide relays information about the
different certifications that are available globally and provides an
overview of the certification requirements, starting formulations
and approved Cognis ingredients.
“Another approach that Cognis is taking is using the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and the 12 Principles of Green Engineering as a compass,” said Denise Petersen, marketing manager
skin care, Cognis. According to Petersen, Cognis adopted these
internationally recognized principles as central guidelines for the
development of concepts, products and processes. “These principles encourage the use of lifecycle assessments and ecobalances;
tools that Cognis has been using for years to determine how green
products and processes are,” she said.
Even with a growing selection of sustainable natural ingredients
at their fingertips, chemists recognize that creating aesthetically
pleasing, efficacious green formulations remains a blend of art
and science. Crafting a results-driven green product requires
laser focus on critical areas of formulation development.
According to Misha Hughes, who worked with XanGo LLC
to formulate its mangosteen-based Glimpse Topical Skin Nutrition line, careful consideration of the entire formula is critical
when working with natural ingredients.
“When we first saw cosmeceuticals coming out, we saw a real
focus on specific ingredients, like antioxidants. I see an evolu-
tion; we are finding out what the skin really needs and optimiz-
ing what the skin naturally does, which is regeneration. It is all
about how we can optimize that.”
Hughes said companies need to find that“sweet spot” with
the preservative—which ensures safety and doesn’t negate the
efficacy.“But the two big issues I am concerned with are bioavail-
ability and delivery,” she said.“You can maximize both by craft-
ing a precision formulation, by selecting the right proportions of
ingredients in relation to each other, which opens communica-
tion between the skin and formula.”
Added Hughes, “Bioavailability, deliverability and perform-
ance—that is the holy grail of green chemistry.”
Combining Nature with Science
“Bio-availability is very important,”stressed David Djerassi, wellness
and cosmetic marketing consultant for LycoRed Corp., Orange, NJ.
“The whole idea of using a natural is good, but the activity must be
scientifically substantiated. Using it just for label claims won’t gen-
erate confidence with consumers and will wear out over time. Also,
the use of adequate levels of the natural ingredients and proper ve-
hicles of delivery are crucial for good performance.”
“The overall move to‘just natural’ won’t sustain itself. It has
to combine nature with science,” he added.
Moving forward, the natural marketplace will continue to
evolve. According to companies HAPPI interviewed, the market will
be shaped by trends such as “extreme ethical,”encompassing both
sustainability and traceability, “eco invisibility” and “free-from”
claims as companies look to move away from specific ingredients.
Stakeholders suggest the best way to regain the momentum
the market once enjoyed is to marry science and nature, such as
combining the best botanicals and high-tech actives, as suggested
by Centerchem, and taking a wide-lens approach regarding what
it means to be green, as noted by Mibelle Biochemistry.
“No doubt, the trend for natural, organic and bio products will
continue to boom. Yet, the market demands a broader vision of
‘natural’—a vision that is less focused on certifications like EcoCert, BDIH, Na True, organic, and more on results and safety,” said
Beata Hurst, marketing and sales manager with Mibelle Biochemistry in Buchs, Switzerland. “Today’s and tomorrow’s cosmetic consumer expects efficacy and believes in natural and
scientific concepts.” •