Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner
IN VICTORIAN TIMES, aristocratic ladies prevented sun and brown spots by al- ways remaining under open umbrellas
while wearing bonnets and gloves. Fair skin
was highly admired. They also used lead-based face powder to achieve a pale fair
look. Needless-to-say, there were many
other dangerous beauty aids in use. It is
well known that use of mercury or excessive hydroquinone in skin care products
have resulted in serious health complications and skin rash known as ochronosis.
This condition results in permanent skin
disfiguration marked by abnormal skin
thickness, blotches and grayish patches.
Many dermatologists, however, dispute
FDA warnings regarding hydroquinone.
By the mid-20s, facial skin begins to
lose its smooth texture and firm tone on account of cross-linking of the normally pliable and well-organized collagen fibers
becoming rigid and disordered, diminishing their ability to stretch. Strong and resilient elastin fibers contribute to a firm
tone of the skin. Such skin easily snaps
Lighter skin shades are highly regarded in many Southeast Asian countries.
back from its stretched state. Cumulative
damage from the sun often emerges in the
form of sun-damage later in life. Fair skin
tone consumers easily show uneven pigmentation and broken blood vessels.
Healthy skin is free of any visible hyperpigmentation and it appears radiant, clear
and even toned and is highly aspired by all
racial and ethnic groups because it represents good skin health and beauty.
This column reviews skin tone products and differences relative to skin tone
and beauty perception in the global consumer’s mind.
Navin M. Geria is vice president of
research and development for SpaDermaceuticals,
Martinsville, NJ. He has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously
with Pfizer, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers
and, most recently, LeDerma Consumer Products
Laboratories. He has earned over 15 U.S. patents, has
been published in cosmetic trade magazines and
has been both a speaker and moderator at cosmetic
Navin M. Geria
According to renowned research dermatol-
ogist Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos,“skin tone”is a
marketing term that has little dermatologic
meaning. It is a concept combining tactile
smoothness, even color and even texture.
Short-term application of botanical face
masks cannot produce this benefit, yet they
may provide a pleasant period of aromatic
relaxation desirable to some consumers.
Toners, astringents and tonics, on the other
hand, have nothing to do with“skin tone.”
They are liquid product dosage forms that
are formulated appropriately for skin type,
and are routinely used after the facial
cleansing step to provide a comforting skin