the well-known fact that skin of color is more prone to
hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Agents that can reduce inflammation and free radicals should help minimize this tendency,” said Ms. Chen,
pointing out that ingredients in J&J’s Ambi Even & Clear
face line—soy, vitamins C and E— work well on hyperpigmentation to help restore even tone skin.
J&J’s second study focused on how aging, sun exposure and
skin color contribute to dryness. By incorporating four common methods to evaluate skin dryness, J&J found that scaling and flaking are less common in African American subjects
than Caucasian subjects. Skin moisture measurements also
show that African American skin on average has higher moisture content than the skin of age matched Caucasian women.
“So while African American skin may look drier, or ashy, it’s
more a phenomenon of ‘dry look’ due to the contrast on their
darker skin,” Ms. Chen said. “A woman of color needs a good
moisturizer that hydrates the skin and reduces the ashy look,
without overdoing.” To that end, Ambi’s newest products
include Soft & Even Creamy Oil Lotion, which provides nongreasy, long-lasting moisturization that lasts up to 24 hours,
according to J&J.
Also looking to kick ashy skin to the curb is Sheree
Elizabeth LLC, the San Diego, CA firm behind Whoop Ash.
This new treatment—which features white honey, grape
seed oil, organic shea and mango butter and organic
coconut oil and is lightly scented with vanilla and warm
honey tones—restores the suppleness, soothes and softens,
according to the company.
Answers for Acne
Within the ethnic skin care category, acne remains a major
concern—and a market with room for growth. In a survey of
753 black women (age 18+) released in August by research
company Mintel, 61% of respondents reported never using
acne treatments. According to Mintel, low usage stems from
the fact that traditional acne treatments can be harsh or
over-dying, which in
turn can create more
blemishes or rebound breakouts.
A few leading ethnic beauty brands
appear to be seizing
the opportunity by
rolling out products
that better address
the specific concerns
of ethnic skin compromised by acne.
focusing not only on
the consumer’s desire for clear skin, but are targeting more ethnic-specific skin
care concerns associated with acne: such as marks, scars, and
sensitivity issues,” noted Ms. Leonard of E. T. Browne, which
has recently added Palmer’s Skin Success Acne Rescue Kit.
Unlike other products that only clear acne blemishes, she
said Palmer’s kit works to eliminate the dark marks acne
leaves behind after the blemish is gone.
Better known for its hair care treatments, Dr. Miracle’s
quickly garnered attention in the skin care market by turning its attention to acne. The company’s My Goodbye Acne
System, a three-step preventative acne solution for African
American and ethnic skin types, was named a “breakthrough
product” of the year in mass skin care by a leading fashion
publication soon after its launch last fall. The system is the
first SKU in the brand’s SkinMeds Collection, and more products are under development, according to Ollie Johnson, vice
president and creative director for Dr. Miracle’s.
Acne expert Rodan + Fields Dermatologists—maker of
Proactiv—is targeting ethnic consumers as well—specifically
the Hispanic community, through a variety of Spanish language initiatives. The company has tapped Dr. Aliza
Lifshitz—better known to the Latino community as la
Doctora Aliza—as a spokesperson and ambassador for the
U.S. Hispanic market.
Named one of the 100 Most Influential Hispanics by
Hispanic Business magazine, Dr. Aliza teamed with Proactiv
founders Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields to provide the
skin care and beauty content for Dr. Aliza’s Spanish-language
Dr. Miracle’s My Goodbye Acne System
is the company’s first skin care SKU.
of almond, cocoa and shea butters, hand cream, and body oil
gel made with aloe vera and olive oil. Other Soft & Beautiful
Skin SKUs go beyond basic moisturization; there’s an in-shower exfoliating scrub formulated with sugar crystals and
sunflower oil as well as a firming lotion infused with ginseng
and collagen proteins.
The Hair Care Brigade
Recognizing an opportunity to generate new revenue
streams, ethnic hair care companies are migrating into skin
care, looking to parlay their expertise in treating tresses to
body and facial care.
Crème of Nature, which is owned by Colomer, is looking to
channel a close connection with its hair care customers—
and its parent company’s expertise in skin care—in the
body care sector.
“We are connected to our consumer, which enables us to
align closely with her to meet her needs. When we’ve discussed those hair care topics that are important to her,
migrating into skin care has been a natural transition,” said
Anthony Standifer, Crème of Nature brand manager.
Crème of Nature body lotion’s three variants—African violet and chamomile, olive oil and lemon zest and sweet mandarin and lemongrass—will be sold exclusively at barbershops and hair salons.
“For the ethnic consumer, the beauty and barber supply
store is a go-to destination for hair and skin care products.
Our core consumer base is already accustomed to finding
Crème of Nature there, so merchandising the new body
lotions there allows us an easy, natural introduction of the
new product,” Mr. Standifer said.
Another hair care expert, Alberto-Culver, has moved into
body care with new Soft & Beautiful Skin. The range, which
bowed over the summer, includes a fast absorbing and nongreasy body lotion, a body butter that includes a combination