In his research, Janusz Jachowicz of
Better Cosmetics LLC found that
hydrolyzate adsorption to untreated
hair is minimal, but more extensive to
bleached hair. Furthermore, both
cationic and anionic proteins alter the
wettability of virgin and bleached hair.
The session’s final speaker, Ray
Rigoletto of ISP, explained how his
team quantified fiber fragmentation
through combing as a measure of thermal protection. After combing, fiber
fragments are collected, fixed to a plastic sheet and numbered. Prior to the
first shampoo and after the final shampoo before combing, hair is analyzed
using scanning electron microscopy,
emission due to tryptophan with a
spectrofluorometer and heat absorption with a differential scanning
calorimeter. Reduction in breakage was
achieved by polymer pretreatment
(hydroxyethyl cellulose or VP/DMAPA).
Pretreatments reduced tryptophan
degradation and reduced the morpho-logical changes of the fiber surface.
The final session of the scientific seminar, which was devoted to multicultural
hair care, was moderated by Colleen
Rocafort of Ciba.
Guive Balooch of the L’Oréal Institute
for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research,
Chicago, explained how Synchrotron x-ray tomography, a high-resolution technique, can be used to measure the
effects of relaxers on hair. The technique revealed a significant reduction
(45%, p<0.01) in fiber energy absorption of the entire fiber (cuticle and cortex) as a result of the NaOH treatment.
Unfortunately, there are only three of
these instruments in the world—in
California, Switzerland and France.
Still, Dr. Balooch concluded that
Synchrotron x-ray tomography is a
great technique for hair care because it
is non-destructive and provides qualitative and quantitative data.
Another L’Oréal researcher, Bradford
Pistorio, provided details of a study on
hair breakage among African-Amer-icans. In the survey, more than 90% of
respondents complained of hair breakage and 23% said it was the No. 1 problem they faced. To help remedy the situation, L’Oréal researchers are developing anti-breakage molecules and interviewing the people who said they don’t
experience breakage to see what they
The scientific seminar’s final speaker,
Trefor Evans of TRI/Princeton attempted to quantify differences in the
propensity for breakage in African-American and Caucasian hair. He
explained how a Diastron CYC800
instrument enables researchers to garner good data because it treats breakage as a statistical variable rather than
using mechanical parameters. ;
At Lipo®, we call them scientists™.
Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at
Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and
platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and
depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics.
After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to
look beneath the surface.
BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE™