lizing polymers was presented by Paul
Ching of Seppic. This knowledge
enables cosmetic chemists to speed up
The Seppic team found that properties were influenced by the polymer
structure (monomers, oil and polymer
type. Surfactant chemistry did not
seem to be a significant parameter in
the study. The monomer choice was a
key parameter to get a constant thickening effect in a wide pH range and an
improved resistance of the gel to UV
exposure; i.e., acrylamide and acryloyl-dimethyltaurate as major monomers
allowed for formulations in the pH 3-10
range, and the gels keep stable after
UV exposure. However, formulations
below pH 5. 5 were not permitted with
acrylic acid and the gels were destabi-lized by UV irradiation.
“Application properties are driven by
monomers, oils and synthesis processes,” he concluded.
A New Look at Hair
New methodologies to measure color
retention, deposition and fiber fragmentation were the topics during a session moderated by Dr. Robert Y.
Lochhead of the University of Southern
Mississippi. FTIR spectroscopic image
analysis enables chemists to characterize compositional changes of chemical-ly-damaged hair fibers, observed Yan
Zhou of International Specialty
Products (ISP). Using this technique,
ISP learned that there is a reduction of
protein and lipid content in triple
bleached hair (26%) and alkaline-treat-ed hair (29%).
Furthermore, the FTIR indicated that
there are 59% and 33% increases of
cysteic acid of bleached hair and alkaline treated hair, respectively. To protect hair color, ISP developed an anti-fading system containing Polyquater-nium- 55, which forms a substantive
and hydrophobic barrier that seals
pores or reduces pore size and protects
Procter & Gamble is using flow cell
microscopy to visualize product deposition on hair, explained Renee Bolden of
P&G. Product usage is simulated by
passing a solution of diluted formula
through the flow cell, followed by distilled water. Dynamic videos show real-time deposition on hair.
This technique, according to Dr.
Bolden, is a valuable tool to understand
how different hair care formulas
deposit on the hair. Flow cell
microscopy also has applications in
personal care moisturization deposition and laundry detergent deposition,
according to P&G. Streaming potential
and/or contact angle measurements
reveal that adsorption and desorption
behavior of a variety of materials,
including peptides, proteins and their
hydrolyzates, vary significantly on the
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