A new facial serum
from Juice Beauty.
anti-aging superfruit that recently
received Generally Recognized As Safe
(GRAS) status, according to the company.
A big challenge is to source active materials in an environmentally sensitive manner,
said Dr. Walter Smith, who is president, science and technology, Active Organics. To
gain a competitive advantage, his company
often has to source unique materials, which
have been only recently commercialized.
“We usually buy crude extracts and do the
final processing ourselves, and a challenge
is to minimize the carbon footprint and the
overall environmental impact of the
process,” said Dr. Smith, whose company
recently rolled out Actimatrix, a mushroom
extract with dermal stimulating properties;
Actismoothe, an extract of cordyceps sinenis
and coriolus versicolor that quells inflammation; and Actilipid, a wheat and forskolin
extract for barrier repair.
“The science of natural product chemistry
has advanced so much that everyone is expecting miracles
from natural products,” said Dr. Smith. “As a supplier, that
means we have to ensure that our products live up to a higher efficacy standard. This involves more development work
and product testing, which means more time and money.”
Some suppliers are taking a worldwide approach to going
green. For example, Arch Personal Care Products, South
Plainfield, NJ, has formed a partnership with the Centroflora
Group of Brazil for global distribution. According to Lisa
Bouldin, director of marketing at Arch, Centroflora Group,
founded in 1957, is the South American leader in production
and development of standardized botanical extracts.
“The Arch-Centroflora alliance provides us with a sustainable organic botanical extract portfolio (trade named
PhytoTerra) comprised of products from Brazil offered with
full traceability of the produced extract, guaranteeing the
safety and highest quality of raw materials,” Ms. Bouldin told
HAPPI. “This effort will also offer committed companies the
unique ability to source botanical extracts through
Partnerships for a Better World. This program brings together industry, consumers and small rural producers by promoting family-sized farming and sustainable agricultural practices, which helps aid both the economy and environment.”
This outlook is also big with marketers.
“In my opinion, truly natural products are safer, more
pleasantly fragrant and they work better. To me, natural is,
more or less, it just fell from a tree or grew from the ground,”
said Bill Whyte (a.k.a. Badger Bill), chief executive officer,
The W.S. Badger Company, Inc., Gilsum, NH. “Once you
process something originally natural such as a fruit, flower,
root or herb, with chemicals, it becomes a stretch of the imagination to still call that botanical natural.”
For example, Badger uses organic virgin coconut oil in its
new Coconut Vanilla Every Day Moisturizer.
“Most coconut oil on the market is derived from the dried
flesh of the coconut, which requires further refining, bleaching and deodorizing, resulting in damaged oil,” said Mr.
Whyte. “Badger’s virgin coconut oil is fresh-processed—usu-
ally within an hour of cracking the
coconut—which locks in the nutrients and the distinct aroma volatiles.
This gives our moisturizer its signature exotic tropical fragrance. That is
something a chemically processed
ingredient cannot deliver.”
“In essence, all of our ingredients
are minimally and naturally processed
in this way,” added Mr. Whyte.
“Though the extraction method
varies from ingredient to ingredient,
we work with suppliers that use the
gentlest extraction methods—such as
cold-pressing—to insure that the
botanicals and oils in our products
are as fresh as they can be.”
The Body Shop also features
coconut-infused body care products.
According to the company, its
Coconut Body Scrub and Coconut
Body Butter—part of its “Summer
Essentials 2009” SKUs—both feature Community Trade
organic virgin coconut oil from Samoa. Additionally, the body
butter contains Community Trade cocoa butter from Ghana.
The Body Shop’s Community Trade program fosters trading
relationships directly with marginalized communities around
the world to source high quality natural ingredients, according to the company.
Exotic sourcing is indeed a top trend in natural ingredients
for 2009—as seen at Cosmetochem, who rolled out its
Outback Spirit Botanicals range. According to the company, it
is a partnership between Outback Spirit Pty., creator of the
brand, and Cosmetochem International AG, and features
exotic Australian fruits and plants redolent of the vast and
wild Australian Outback. The ingredients are also derived
from an ethical supply chain. For more on this collection, see
page 64 in this edition of HAPPI.
Efficacy Is Everything
Despite the growth in naturals, some consumers view natural products as less effective as compared to products that are
based on the latest scientific technology, noted Lynn
Mazzella, senior vice president of Origins Global Product
Development and Sustainability, New York, NY. Her company uses therapeutic plant actives, such as white tea to protect
the skin from age-accelerating environmental stressors, and
rhodiola, to correct and re-firm the skin in a handful of skin
One of the key launches at Origins this season is
Youthtopia Age-Correcting Serum with Rhodiola, said to visibly improve facial contours, lift and firm and minimize the
appearance of lines and wrinkles. The company will roll out
Brighter by Nature Skin Tone Correcting Serum, said to be a
natural alternative to laser resurfacing, this August. The
product aims to help eliminate the appearance of stubborn
dark spots and dullness in the skin with yeast extract, vitamin C, Japanese basil leaf and salicylic acid.
Joshua Onysko, founder and chief executive officer of
Pangea Organics, Boulder, CO, which sells it products at