Time Zone from Estée Lauder helps older skin look
younger, according to company executives.
eral oil, parabens and artificial colors. All products are
manufactured in Italy and aimed at upscale clientele.
“We have global sales of about $8 million, but we
grew 33% last year,” explained Alessandro Fracas,
president of the company.
The firm’s Maschera al Ferro (Iron Mask) contains
iron microspheres that reportedly act like magnets to
draw impurities out of the skin. After which, the aesthetician uses a tonic to remove the impurities. The formula also contains a variety of nutritive ingredients,
such as Omega- 3 and ceramides, to improve skin. The
“By activating Sirtuin 31, we can increase the lifespan of
cells in simple animal models by 30%,” explained Dr. Maes.
“We’ve performed work to show that the same thing happens
The primary ingredient behind the Sirtuin EX-1 technology is a patented hydrolyzed rice extract. But the Time Zone
crème also contains Tri-Hyaluronic Acid Complex, a blend of
three hyaluronic acid technologies that work at multiple levels in the skin to help replenish, rebuild and sustain it.
Another new Estée Lauder product that promises to keep
skin looking young is Re-Nutriv Ultimate Youth Crème. The
product contains Estée Lauder’s patent-pending Youth
Molecule, which includes Resveratrate, a material that mimics resveratrol in efficacy, but is more stable
and more potent, according to the company.
Years ago, cosmetic chemists were interested in increasing cellular division, a concept
that has fallen out of favor at Estée Lauder.
“We strongly believe that if you increase
cellular division you exhaust the number of
cells,” Dr. Maes insisted.
The newest product from Bioelements is
CreateFirm skin tightening serum. It contains Aquamide- 5, a material that contains
five types of ceramide lipids that are said to
activate lipid production, as well as microal-gae to stimulate collagen formation and
“Whenever we see a gap in our line, we
search for the solution; we know that firmness is always an issue with consumers,”
explained Ms. Salomone. “We were looking
for a category killer in this area, so we developed CreateFirm around a blend of five skin-identical ceramides.”
treatment isn’t cheap, it can cost as much as $300, but the
mask produces immediate results, according to Mr. Fracas.
“We put an emphasis on quality ingredients,” he
explained. “Our products contain ceramides derived from
fish oil. They also contain essential oils.”
Discretionary spending may be down in the U.S., but Mr.
Fracas insists that once customers understand the quality of
the ingredients and see the results for themselves, they’ll be
willing to repurchase Maschera al Ferro.
“We offer something different to the market,” he insisted.
“People don’t want to throw money away. When they use our
products they see the difference right away; skin glows and
has a good color. So why complain about money?”
More than Cosmetics
During a recent HAPPI webinar on skin health (archived and
available for viewing on www.Happi.com), dermatologist
Zein Obagi, creator of the Obagi line of skin
care products and founder of ZO Skin Health,
insisted that skin can be divided into three
• Active (the skin you were born with);
• Altered (skin damaged by disease); and
According to Dr. Obagi, when consumers
reach 30 years of age, their skin begins to
become inactive and the only way to “wake up”
skin cells is with vitamin A. Retinol is most
easily absorbed by the skin, which gets the
cells to start functioning properly.
Unfortunately, according to Dr. Obagi, too
many cosmetic companies focus only on moisturization, which he said is only a temporary
“In an hour, the effects are gone and women
have to use it (a moisturizer) again,” he
explained. “Moisturizers are somewhat addictive, in two or three weeks, you will be
When that happens, the natural exfoliation
process is lost and skin becomes sensitive and
dull, he said.
“Think of a tree. A tree doesn’t get moisture from the leaves. It gets it from the roots.
Cut the roots and the tree dies,” he observed.
“We have to enhance moisturization from
New CreateFirm answers
the consumer’s need for
skin that feels firm.
Deep Cleansing Facial from Italy
For aestheticians and at-home use,
Dermophisiologique is launching a new spa
treatment called Maschera al Ferro. The 30-
year-old Italian company, which established
a U.S. office less than a year ago, markets a
broad range of products that are free of min-