potential for providing protective characteristics along with versatility in formulation for hair care products. Table 1
summarizes their protective properties.
The silicones described here provide a
range of hair protection properties
which, when combined with their functional and sensory benefits, offer
greater flexibility for formulators.
Additionally, these specialty silicones
can be used with organic materials,
including natural oils, butters or waxes
to provide synergistic effects for conditioning, shine and sensory properties.
These silicone materials offer a wide
range of innovative technology and formulation concepts for hair protection.
Information from these studies can also
serve as a screening tool to help formulators determine which silicones are
most appropriate for specific applications or chemistries. 8 The result can be
shorter test times and faster development of highly differentiated products
to protect hair and help create and
maintain its healthy appearance.
1. Dow Corning survey based on Global New
Products Database, Mintel Group (2007, 2008)
2. T Scharfeld, C D’Arrigo, and KH Lim, A single
hair fiber tensile tester for operation under a scanning electron microscope, Massachusetts Institute
of Technology, 1-5
3. AN Syed and H Ayoub, Correlating porosity
and tensile strength of chemically modified hair,
Cosmet Toil, 117: 11, 57-64 (November 2002)
4. AN Syed, H Ayoub and A Kuhajda, Recent
advances in treating excessively curly hair, Cosmet
Toil, 113: 9, 47-56 (September 1998)
5 B Johnson, K Quackenbush and B Swanton,
Silicones for hair strengthening, Cosmet Toil, 122: 3,
6. A Gomes, “O uso da Technologia Cosmética no
Trabalho do profissional cabeleireiro,” 102-105, Ed.
Senac – Brasil, (1999)
7. A Gomes, et al., The use of silicones in hair colorant formulations, Dow Corning white paper
8. For additional details, see www.dowcorning.
Silicones Offer Versatility for Formulating
Specialty silicones can provide multifunctional, individualized properties in hair
care products for consumers who seek
performance and protection, along with
distinctive sensory characteristics.
The leave-in conditioner of Formula 1
demonstrates a combination of silicones
that may offer color and heat protection
along with a soft feel and increased volume.
The clear, water-based formulation is an
added benefit for consumers who seek
more natural appearing products. The formulation offers versatility for delivery as a
spray or from the bottle.
Combine A. Add B to A with mixing. Add C
described in this paper demonstrate that
the addition of bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG
amodimethicone can provide color protection properties to hair.
A variation on Formula 1, Formula 2
becomes a styling mousse with the addition of a water-based styling agent.
Formula 1: Leave-In Conditioner
Solubilizer (choice) 1.0
Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 0.1
Water (aqua) 89. 3
Propylene glycol 2.0
Butylene glycol (1,3-butylene glycol) 3.0
Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat 2.0
quaternium- 16 (and) undeceth- 11
(and) undeceth- 5)
Preservative (choice) 0.5
Yellow 6 (LCW Sensient) q.s.
(FD&C Yellow 6 W082)
Dow Corning 193C Fluid 2.0
(PEG- 12 dimethicone)
Formula 2: Styling Mousse
Solubilizer (choice) 2.0
Water (aqua) 83.0
Cocamide DEA 2.0
PVP/VA copolymer 2.0
Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat 4.0
Microemulsion (Silicone quaternium- 16
(and) undeceth- 11 (and) butyloctanol
(and) undeceth- 5)
Preservative (choice) 0.50
Dehyton (Cognis) 2.0
Dow Corning 193C Fluid 1.0
(PEG- 12 dimethicone)
Combine A ingredients. Add B to A with
mixing. Add C with mixing.
Formula 3: Treatment Cream for Curly Hair
Eumulgin B2 (Cognis) 0.75
Incroquat Behenyl TMS (Croda) 1.50
(Behentrimonium methosulfate (and)
Lanette Wax O (Cognis) 3.00
Cithrol GMS (Croda) 3.00
Lipovol ALM (Lipo Chemicals) 2.00
(Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet
Water (aqua) 84. 85
Dow Corning 8500 3.00
Conditioning Agent (Bis (C13-15 alkoxy)
Dragocide Liquid 2/060140 0.40
(Symrise) (Phenoxyethanol (and)
methylparaben (and) butylparaben
(and) ethylparaben (and) propylparaben
Citric acid q.s.
Formula 3 was designed to protect or
restore the beauty of curly hair. It can be
used as a leave-on treatment if strong conditioning is required, or as a rinse-off conditioner. Waxes, natural oils and silicones
provide complementary benefits. Studies
Heat A ingredients to 70-75°C. Heat B
ingredients to approximately 80°C. Add B
to A with mixing. Mix until cool. Add C and
mix. Add D and mix. Adjust pH to 4.0-4.5