bound water and delivers that water to the skin over time. In
an ex-vivo study, the stratum corneum contained five times
more water 24 hours after treatment with Hylasome EG10
than after treatment with hyaluronic acid at the same concentration, according to the company.
Also new from Lipo is Lipobrite HCA- 4, a hydroxycinnamic
acid that has been solubilized in PEG- 4 to enhance its sol-ublity, bioavailability and skin brightening performance.
Current research at Centerchem is focused on micellular
systems and liquid crystal systems. For hair care applications, Centerchem offers a family of cationic liposomes, called
Vecorexin, that deliver panthenol to the hair shaft.
“We also develop custom delivery solutions for many of our
customers,” added Mr. Packer.
RITA has introduced a line of easy-to-incorporate silicone
matrix ingredients under the brand name Ritasil.
“The benefit here is the extraordinary feel you get from silicone ingredients with the skin care ‘lipid barrier’ improvement attributes you get from natural oils,” explained Mr.
Beio. “We have entrapped five natural oils (sesame, sweet
almond, shea butter, sunflower and safflower) within these
concentrated silicone matrices to protect them from oxidation
and enhance their ease of formulation. The net result is a
skin feel that mimics a silicone powder, with the skin care
benefits of natural lipids.”
Rovi researchers are currently working on a delivery system that is coated with a positively charged natural substance. According to Ms. Teichmüller, this delivery system
adsorbs so tightly onto the skin’s surface (which is negatively
charged) that it takes five washings to come off.
“This system will be used for the encapsulation of UV filters,” she explained. “Through the tight adsorption less filter
can be used and the filter strictly remains on top of the skin.”
TRI-K Industries, Inc. supplies delivery systems under
trade name of KemSpheres. According to the company, the
system is quite flexible and can be adjusted to meet specific
customer’s needs. Based on solid lipid nanotechnology, it
The right delivery system can stabilize retinol and make it less
irritating on the skin.
allows for encapsulation of lipophilic and amphiphilic actives.
The actives are encapsulated in the solid lipid portion of the
system and slowly released onto the skin upon formation of
the exceptionally coherent film on the skin. This film can be
referred to as “patch-like” so the mechanism of release mimics that of delivery from a patch. The transport of actives into
skin deeper layers is based on lateral diffusion.
KemSpheres R (with encapsulated retinol) is the newest
addition to the line. Besides enhancing delivery, it stabilizes
retinol and significantly reduces skin irritation associated
with this active, thus allowing formulators to increase its use
level, according to TRI-K.
Croda has been studying the role of emollients, emulsifiers
and polar delivery vehicles in ingredient delivery for many
years, according to Mr. Chandler. Croda continues to bring
new understanding of the role of such lamellar liquid crystal-forming emulsifiers as Arlatone LC and Crodafos CES in
delivery, as well as furthering its appreciation of the large
role Arlasolve DMI continues to play as a safe delivery vehicle for polar ingredients and difficult-to-dissolve materials.
Creations Couleurs is developing binary systems made to
measure. These systems are under patent applications,
according to Mr. Saintrond.
“The idea is simply to bring into place at the right time two
ingredients which are chemically incompatible, and that create a new function once united,” he explained. “I would call
this technique in situ activity for high end skin care.”
Solutions for Wipe-Based Formulas
Evonik Goldschmidt has introduced several delivery systems with applications in personal care wipe products. For
example, Tego Wipe DE PF is a ready-to-use concentrate for
simple processing of O/W nanoemulsions with an excellent
stability profile, according to the company. It is suitable for
the formulation of PEG-free impregnating lotions for wet
wipes, has excellent makeup removing properties, provides
a light, non-oily skin feel and is paraben-free. Tego Wipe
Flex gives formulators the flexibility to formulate O/W
lotion wipes with various sensorial profiles. Also new is
Tego Wipe Lux, which Evonik Goldschmidt bills as innovative EO-free concentrate for cosmetic wet wipes that contains natural cotton seed oil.
Aside from wipes, the company has introduced two new skin
care ingredients, too. Tego Emulprot is a natural milk-and-sugar-based emulsifier designed for natural cosmetic O/W
emulsions. while Tego Care LTP is billed as a versatile veg-etable-based emulsifier blend for cost effective processing of
O/W emulsions for skin care, sun care or baby care applications. Tego Care LTP suitable for cold processing of lotions
and sprays and for hot processing of creams at a pH 5-8. 5,
according to the company.
Additionally, Abil Care XL 80 is a new emulsifier providing
an outstanding combination of stabilization and sensory benefits, according to Evonik Goldschmidt.
With analysts predicting continued gains in the anti-aging
category even as the economy slips, marketers and their suppliers will continue to roll out new products that rely heavily
on safe and effective delivery systems.