and the stratum corneum,” explained Mark Chandler, technical manager, skin care innovation, Croda. “A tailored
approach to individual ingredients is key to success. An
ingredient must get into the formulation, out of the formulation and to the targeted site to be effective.”
But Alain Saintrond, president, Creations Couleurs, suggested that most of the interest surrounding delivery systems
is primarily for visual appeal and rarely for performance.
“Most formulators are not really open to thinking that skin
care can actually bring benefits to consumer's skin,” he told
HAPPI. “Indeed, they see few results with classic formulations
(that are) rich in emulsifiers and preservatives.”
Another supplier echoed with Mr. Saintrond’s assessment,
noting that few finished products on the market truly provide excellent delivery of actives to the skin. One surprising
exception, he maintained, are self-tanning products, which
utilize good delivery technology for water-soluble dihydroxy-acetone.
Every supplier contacted by HAPPI noted that all cosmetic
delivery systems undergo strenuous safety testing prior to
entering the market in order to ensure that active materials
are delivered when and where promised.
Cosmetic safety regulations have never been stricter than
they are at present,” observed Ms. Teichmüller. “There are no
additional risks resulting from delivery systems and their
use. If at all, there needs to be a stricter distinction between
cosmetic and pharmaceutical actives.”
“Products can be delivered too deep within the skin and
wind-up in the capillary bed,” warned Thomas Russo, formulations manager, Lipo Chemicals. To avoid having actives in
the bloodstream, he suggested that companies conduct invitro test models with markers to determine the depth of penetration related to skin.
But at the end of the day, active ingredients and their delivery systems, can only do so much.
“Frankly, the efficacy is good, but it only goes so far,”
explained Mr. Packer. “We’re not taking 50-year-old skin and
turning it into a newborn’s skin. We’re creating meaningful
improvements and working with the body’s mechanism to
achieve cosmetic benefits.
What’s New from Industry Suppliers?
With demand for effective skin care products on the rise,
industry suppliers have rolled out an array of new delivery
systems for skin care products.
Lipo Chemical, for example, launched Hylasome EG10, a
chemically-crosslinked hyaluronic acid that is a delivery system for water. It forms a film on the skin that holds tightly-