•Gleams & Notions
A USEFUL, MULTIFUNCTIONAL
COSMETIC
WHEN AN INGREDIENT performs
more than one function in a for-
mula it serves as a very useful
tool for the cosmetic chemist.
Multifunctional materials help
chemical inven-
tory, likely lower
the cost, and cer-
tainly simplify
the formula. An
offering called
Hest-18-0 from
Global Seven,
Franklin, NJ
makes this
claim. Its INCI
name is glyc-
ereth- 18 ethyl-
hexanonate (and)
glycereth- 18. It
is produced by
esterification of
ethylhexanoic
acid with glyc-
ereth- 18, and is
both alcohol and
water soluble.
According to
Global Seven,
Hest-18-0:
• Exhibits long
lasting anti-microbial activity against a wide
range of organisms and thus
can reduce or
eliminate other
preservatives
such as parabens or formaldehyde
donors.
• Produces a warming effect on
the skin.
• Reduces tack or drag of other
ingredients while leaving a smooth
light emollient after feel similar to
silicone.
INGREDIENT
• Acts as a solvent for water
insoluble materials such as salicylic
acid. In fact, 20% salicylic acid is soluble in this material and a stable
solution is achieved at room temperature.
• Since it is water soluble, it can
be added to the water phase before it
is emulsified or it can be added later
to the already formed oil-in-water
emulsion.
Propylene glycol
0.5
Procedure:
Mix well together at room temperature.
Its use as an anti-microbial is
shown below which is called “
preservative free.”
HARVEY M.
FISHMAN
CONSULTANT
HARVEY FISHMAN HAS A
CONSULTING FIRM AT 34
CHICASAW DRIVE,
OAKLAND, NJ 07436,
HRFISHMAN@MSN.COM,
SPECIALIZING IN COSME TIC
FORMULATIONS AND NE W
PRODUCT IDEAS, OFFERING
TESTED FINISHED PRODUCTS. HE HAS MORE THAN
30 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE
AND HAS BEEN DIRECTOR
OF RESEARCH AT BONAT,
NESTLÉ LEMUR AND
TURNER HALL. HE WELCOMES DESCRIPTIVE LITERATURE FROM SUPPLIERS
AND BENCH CHEMISTS AND
OTHERS IN THE FIELD.
A Wide Range of Uses
Hest G-18-0 was checked for skin
irritation as is (undiluted) under
occlusive conditions, and was used as
a 20% solution in water to test for
ocular irritation. In both tests, it
was found to be non-irritating.
As an anti-microbial, its
Minimum Inhibitory Concentration
was determined against various
microbes such as gram positive bacteria (S. aureus and B. subtilis),
gram negative bacteria (E. coli and
P. aeruginosa), and yeast and mold
(A. niger, P. notatum and C. albi-cans). It was found to be effective at
1-2% or less. The exact amount will
vary with the application.
Hest G-18-0 is exothermic when it
is dissolved in water. This temperature rise is about 2-3 times more
than the same amount of glycerine
or propylene glycol provides. The
maximum rise is 12°C when about
60% by weight of the material is
used. The other two chemicals only
rise 5%.
The formula provided below illustrates the use of this material as a
heat producer.
Sunscreen with Avobenzone
Ingredient Wt.
Water 57. 5
Hest G-18-0 4.0
VP/Eicosene copolymer 2.0
DEA-Cetyl phosphate 3.0
Glyceryl stearate 4.0
Cetyl alcohol 2.0
Dibehenyl fumarate 2.0
Avobenzone 3.0
Octisalate 5.0
Octinoxate 7. 5
Octyldodecyl neopentanoate 10.0
Procedure:
Add Hest G-18-0 to water and heat
to 90°C. Add other ingredients in
separate container with mixing to
90°C. Add oil phase to water phase,
and mix while cooling to 45°C.
In the final formula below, Hest
G-18-0 is used as a moisturizer.
Clear Hand Sanitizer
Ingredient Wt.
Water 30. 74
Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.40
Crosspolymer
SD Alcohol 40-B
Aminomethyl propanol
Hest G-18-0
63.0
0.36
5. 50
Warming Body Massage
Ingredient Wt.
Hest G-18-0 99
Glycerine 0.5
Procedure:
Add ingredients in indicated order.
Mix slowly at room temperature
until product is uniform.