Household and Personal Products Industry

•Gleams & Notions

A USEFUL, MULTIFUNCTIONAL
COSMETIC

WHEN AN INGREDIENT performs
more than one function in a for-
mula it serves as a very useful
tool for the cosmetic chemist.
Multifunctional materials help
chemical inven-
tory, likely lower
the cost, and cer-
tainly simplify
the formula. An
offering called
Hest-18-0 from
Global Seven,
Franklin, NJ
makes this
claim. Its INCI
name is glyc-
ereth- 18 ethyl-
hexanonate (and)
glycereth- 18. It
is produced by
esterification of
ethylhexanoic
acid with glyc-
ereth- 18, and is
both alcohol and
water soluble.
According to
Global Seven,
Hest-18-0:

• Exhibits long lasting anti-microbial activity against a wide range of organisms and thus can reduce or eliminate other preservatives

such as parabens or formaldehyde donors.

• Produces a warming effect on the skin.

• Reduces tack or drag of other ingredients while leaving a smooth light emollient after feel similar to silicone.

INGREDIENT

• Acts as a solvent for water insoluble materials such as salicylic acid. In fact, 20% salicylic acid is soluble in this material and a stable solution is achieved at room temperature.

• Since it is water soluble, it can be added to the water phase before it is emulsified or it can be added later to the already formed oil-in-water emulsion.

Propylene glycol

0.5

Procedure:

Mix well together at room temperature.

Its use as an anti-microbial is shown below which is called “ preservative free.”

HARVEY M.
FISHMAN
CONSULTANT

HARVEY FISHMAN HAS A CONSULTING FIRM AT 34 CHICASAW DRIVE, OAKLAND, NJ 07436, HRFISHMAN@MSN.COM, SPECIALIZING IN COSME TIC FORMULATIONS AND NE W PRODUCT IDEAS, OFFERING TESTED FINISHED PRODUCTS. HE HAS MORE THAN 30 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE AND HAS BEEN DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH AT BONAT, NESTLÉ LEMUR AND TURNER HALL. HE WELCOMES DESCRIPTIVE LITERATURE FROM SUPPLIERS AND BENCH CHEMISTS AND OTHERS IN THE FIELD.

A Wide Range of Uses

Hest G-18-0 was checked for skin irritation as is (undiluted) under occlusive conditions, and was used as a 20% solution in water to test for ocular irritation. In both tests, it was found to be non-irritating.

As an anti-microbial, its Minimum Inhibitory Concentration was determined against various microbes such as gram positive bacteria (S. aureus and B. subtilis), gram negative bacteria (E. coli and P. aeruginosa), and yeast and mold (A. niger, P. notatum and C. albi-cans). It was found to be effective at 1-2% or less. The exact amount will vary with the application.

Hest G-18-0 is exothermic when it is dissolved in water. This temperature rise is about 2-3 times more than the same amount of glycerine or propylene glycol provides. The maximum rise is 12°C when about 60% by weight of the material is used. The other two chemicals only rise 5%.

The formula provided below illustrates the use of this material as a heat producer.

Sunscreen with Avobenzone
Ingredient Wt.
Water 57. 5
Hest G-18-0 4.0
VP/Eicosene copolymer 2.0
DEA-Cetyl phosphate 3.0
Glyceryl stearate 4.0
Cetyl alcohol 2.0
Dibehenyl fumarate 2.0
Avobenzone 3.0
Octisalate 5.0
Octinoxate 7. 5
Octyldodecyl neopentanoate 10.0

Procedure:

Add Hest G-18-0 to water and heat to 90°C. Add other ingredients in separate container with mixing to 90°C. Add oil phase to water phase, and mix while cooling to 45°C.