Ulrich Issberner of Cognis Corp., provided the audience
with strategies to create green products. He explained that
going green really depends on how far the customer wants
to go in the process. After all, there are no green UV filters
on the market, nor any preservatives or solvents for that
Therefore, formulators can create levels of green to their
own liking. For example, marketers may choose to create
100% natural, organic products or they may opt for formulas that are made from 95% organically-certified products.
Other options, according to Dr. Issberner, include 100% naturally-derived, or developing products that are free from
ingredients such as mineral oil. There’s even room for products that are “naturally-inspired,” according to the speaker.
But even the greenest product available on the market
will come under scrutiny if its packaging is extravagant or
wasteful. John A. Delfausse of Estée Lauder Companies,
explained how the “Design, Reuse and Recover” concept can
help personal care companies design sustainable packaging.
“There is a move afoot to certify packaging as sustainable,”
he told the audience. “But no packaging is sustainable from
head to toe.”
That reality has stopped the growth of the Sustainable
Packaging Coalition, which has grown to include 180 members during the past year.
Estée Lauder has its own definition for sustainable packaging that includes maximizing the use of renewable and
recycled materials, manufacturing using clean production
Mark your Calendar!
The Society of Cosmetic Chemists will hold its annual
scientific meeting and technology showcase at the New
York Hilton, Dec. 11 and 12. Next year’s scientific seminar will be held June 4 and 5 at the Chicago Hilton,
Chicago. Finally, the 2009 annual scientific meeting and
technology showcase will be held Dec. 10-11 at the
New York Hilton. More info: www.scconline.org
technologies and best practices and can be effectively recovered for re-use as a resource after use.
Finally, Farah K. Ahmed of the Personal Care Product
Council reviewed regulatory issues surrounding organic
and natural issues. Like the speakers before her, Ms. Ahmed
noted that there is no general consensus on what the term
“natural” means. At the end of the day, the Federal Trade
Commission will often decide cases where outlandish
claims—including those regarding naturals—are made. She
noted, for example, that the FDA does not define the natural term for personal products. However, the FTC and the
National Advertising Division require “adequate substantiation” of claims. Furthermore, FTC has stated that companies must be clear and definitive on green claims.
She also warned that the NAD is on the lookout for outlandish claims such as “better than Botox,” and may urge
action by the FTC.
“We’re so used to seeing regulations from the FDA, but
now you must be aware of what your peers think about your
product claims,” she warned the audience.
A Closer Look at Skin
Jane Hollenberg of JCH Consulting moderated a session on
skin color. The first speaker, Carla Perez of Seppic, detailed
a new skin whitener (sodium palmitoyproline and nymphea
alba flower extract) that is capable of modulating melano-genesis-related genes to prevent UV-induced pigmentation.
She explained how SPPNF (0.00025%) induced a significant reduction of ET-1 production as well as a slight reduction of IL-1alpha production in non-irradiated cells, which is
partially responsible for its lightening effect. Also, SPPNF
induced a decrease in the expression of MIC1, a bone morphogenetic protein, which is likely responsible for the
decrease in tyrosinase, MITF and other melanogenesis-related gene expression.
Betty Aucare of BASF explained how complex effect pigments can provide innovative solutions for ethnic color cosmetics. She noted that the color generated by effect pigment
is highly dependent on the viewing angle and the skin tone
in which it is applied. For example, formulations containing
effect pigments brighten dark skin tones. Moreover, red
interference effect pigments neutralize the excess red color
and bring back the skin’s natural look. Thus using a formulation containing red or gold effect pigments masks the skin
imperfection created by the reddish spots.
The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) was the focus of a
presentation by Hugues Beaulieu of Unipex Innovations.
Specifically, he explained how a formula containing 2.5% of
caprooyl tetrapeptide- 3 produced a significant reduction in
fine lines and wrinkles. Within 28 days of application, fine
lines and wrinkles were reduced by 16%. Interestingly, for
older test subjects (those 50-65), the benefits continued to
progress over two months for an average reduction of 27%.
To document the effect of caprooyl tetrapeptide- 3, the
Unipex team used echography. They recorded the age-related appearance of a superficial low-echogenic band in the
dermis, immediately below the epidermal entrance echo. As
a result, Unipex proposed that echogenicity is a marker for
Michael Daley of Kimberly-Clark provided details on how
controlling ceramidase can improve skin health. He
explained how biological exudates from humans damage
skin and cause irritation. But botanical compositions containing Dragoderm, aloe ferox HS, phytoplenolin, American
ginseng, tea extract and comfrey leaf extract proved to significantly reduce ceramidase. He concluded that including
these botanicals into products may present a cost effective
means to deliver an important skin benefit.
Finally, Roger McMullen of International Specialty
Products explained how to use image analysis to quantify
the efficacy of active ingredients for skin. Using the
Photoshop program, Dr. McMullen showed the audience
how image processing can take images obtained from a
microscope and enhance specific features to be easily highlighted and properly measured. Traditional techniques that